Moab!

After successful and enjoyable hiking trips to the Italian Dolomites and Colorado last year with my hiking friends, it seemed we were on the right track to continue with these group hiking adventures further afield from our local stomping ground. We were interested in finding somewhere to hike during the cooler season. Initially, Brian suggested the Big Bend, Texas area that has been on my radar for some time. With difficult logistics to overcome, Spreadsheet proposed an alternative of Moab, Utah that she had visited several years ago. The participants changed from last year, with myself, Spreadsheet, and 2 (maybe 3) Night Max being the constant but joined by Liz and Dave and my dear AT friend, Mudsmeller. Sadly, Brian had to withdraw from the trip at the last minute, and we certainly missed his presence.

Living up to her trail name and excellent organizational skills, Spreadsheet arranged stays at 2 lovely condos just outside Moab and two SUVs were rented to get around and to the trailheads. We all flew into Grand Junction, CO, a roughly 2-hour drive from Moab. Despite the long day of travel but thanks to the time difference we were ready to hit the trail the following morning.

Day 1 The Fiery Furnace area in Arches National Park requires a permit which Dave had secured for us. We were required to watch a video before being let loose in this incredible site. During the busier season, a ranger-led tour is offered, and we were advised that we could follow the very small unobtrusive arrow signs that it followed. We were also instructed to be sure to urinate on a rock rather than on the sandy soil surface to protect the fragile ecosystem. “Lady rock” or “man rock” break became the terminology used to signal a need for a private moment the rest of the week, rather than “trail break” that we use at home. Also important to avoid busting the crust, a significant mix of fungi, algae, lichens, and mosses which help control runoff and erosion in rare rainfall and helps support the flora of the region. I kept forgetting this important instruction in my excitement at seeing interesting stuff, but thankfully my hiking companions took on the task of reminding me. It was an excellent day of rock scrambling, shimmying between narrow slots sometimes crawling on hands and knees, exploring dead-end canyons, and searching for the elusive small arrow signs! We might still be wandering about there if not for Mudsmellers sharp eye for the damn things. Despite tracking only 3.6 miles, it felt like much more and took up most of the day. We stopped at several overlooks viewing the amazing arches this park is famous for before heading back to town. Stopped at Moab Brewery for beers, wine, and tasty appetizers. Later a delicious Thai dinner!

Day 2 After yesterday’s exciting scramble, we were eager to see more. That is, all but Mudsmelller, who decided she needed a zero day and had some phone calls to make. We decided that the rest of us would enter the Island in the Sky area of Canyonlands National Park and tackle the Syncline Loop trail and Upheaval Dome. It took about an hour to drive into Island of the Sky, passing a potash mine, a touristy dinosaur park, and traveling through some range land with hand-drawn signs with funny illustrations warning of cows in the road.

We were quickly treated to some amazing views from the Upheaval Dome overlooks. This interesting geological feature was perhaps a collapsed salt dome or formed from a meteorite impact, recent evidence pointing to the latter. Evidently research is ongoing to determine exactly what happened to form this curious geological formation.

Fantastic views as we steeply descended down into the canyon in the recommended clockwise direction. Thank you for the switchbacks trail builders!

We laughed at Dave and his desire to take a swim but funnily enough there were opportunities to at least get wet in the pools of clear water in the small creek. He never took the opportunity and I suspect it might have been a cold dip, at least for me.

The hike up out of the canyon was what gave this hike the strenuous rating. We clambered up over tricky boulder fields that made the trail hard to follow and quite treacherous at times. Spreadsheet and I were in the rear and somehow got off trail and had to do some serious scrambling up a scree slope to get back on track. The cairns were helpful as well as a small directional sign at the most difficult section. Luckily, strategic hand and foot holds made it possible. We logged over 9 miles on this very fun hike.

Back at the condo, Mudsmeller and I took advantage of the hot tub with a relaxing soak! On the Colorado trip, we had regretted not eating-in at our lodging, so we took advantage of the condo grill, enjoying a meal of chicken, asparagus, and salad. Yum!

Day 3 The forecast morning rain was short-lived, though it was very windy, as evidenced by the huge tumbleweed needing relocation from our driveway before we could get out. Prickly bugger!

We enjoyed a delicious breakfast of huevos rancheros at Gloria’s in Moab before heading back out to Island in the Sky in Canyonlands for some short hikes to lookouts and more sightseeing.

Next stop was Dead Horse Point State Park! We took a short, easy hike out on the Rim Trail with its spectacular views and glimpses of the Colorado River in the distance. Really enjoyed the interpretive signs identifying flora I had been observing but my Seek App had been unable to recognize.

Surprisingly we logged 7 miles of hiking today, which called for another quick stop at Moab Brewery for refreshments. Liz prepared delicious pasta carbonara for dinner.

Day 4 Though we could see glimpses of the Needles district of Canyonlands during yesterday’s sightseeing, it was a two-hour drive to actually get to the Elephant Hill trailhead. We hiked a lollipop through the Chesler Park area with an out-and-back side trip on the Joint Trail. Hiking through the Joint was incredible and well worth the detour. Picture-perfect day!

We hiked through a wash in the loop back to the trailhead providing more great views of this amazing area.

I tracked a little over 10 miles on this hike. A cooler of local brews and chips provided post-hike refreshment before the long drive back to Moab and delicious Mexican food at El Tapita.

Day 5 Today we headed back into Arches National Park. This popular park requires reserved timed entry during the busy season, and a ranger told us that visitation would increase substantially in a few weeks. I think we timed our end-of-February visit perfectly as far as crowds and weather were concerned. We decided to hike the Devils Garden area to view more of the many spectacular arches.

This hike did require some scrambling up to and along a narrow ledge that required some courage and then had to be negotiated again for the return. Kudos to Mudsmeller for pushing beyond her comfort zone.

We gave Moab’s newest brewery, Proper Brewery a try for today’s happy hour. Thumbs up from me. Heading towards the end of our week and since an abundance of eggs I prepared crustless quiche for dinner to go along with assorted leftovers. A delicious smorgasbord of eggs, Thai, Mexican, salad etc… It worked!

Day 6 Return to Island in the Sky for the Murphy Loop Trail, also with a strenuous rating. Despite the biting wind, the initial mesa walk out to the rim for the descent down to White Rim Rd was pleasant enough. Upon reaching the rim, it was hard to see how we were going to get to the bottom, but we did, thanks to multiple switchbacks.

Once past the steep descent, the trail was quite enjoyable despite the wind still blowing. We eventually reached a jeep road that we followed for about a mile. Glad we hiked the counterclockwise direction because it was a steep descent on the road to the start of the wash section. Imagine it would be fun to camp at any of the several backcountry campsites we passed.

There was no getting around getting back up to the mesa the same way we got down. Unique hike and so different from others done this week. We celebrated Spreadsheets’ birthday in Moab at the Broken Oar! Enjoyed listening to Neil Young and Van Morrison via Dave’s Bluetooth speaker back at the condo.

Day 7 Travel day back to Grand Junction to drop Mudsmeller off at the airport. Spreadsheet, Max, and I then took a drive to take in the magnificent views along Rim Rock Drive in Colorado National Monument. Dave and Liz were staying a few extra days for skiing but invited us over to their Airbnb to partake of some of the included keg of beer that interestingly was an add-on perk with their accommodation??? Final delicious dinner at Devils Kitchen. Excellent burger with duck fat fries!

Day 8 Early wake-up to find several inches of snow covering the ground and our flight cancelled. Spreadsheet quickly organized new flights home taking her and I on a fast grand tour of airports and Max more directly into Greenville SC. TSA confiscated my well-used hiking poles and Max’s peanut butter. Guess I know what I’ll be using my REI dividend for. But phew……long exhausting day!

I am curiously drawn to the incredible beauty of the desert and loved exploring this new territory with such adventurous like-minded companions! Wonderful trip and good times!

Much gratitude to Spreadsheet and Mudsmeller for sharing and allowing me to use some of their great photos!