Despite feeling somewhat unsettled when reaching Seiad Valley, I did enjoy my rest at Wildwood RV Park particularly early on in the day when few hikers were around. Enjoyed a great breakfast at the cafe cooked and served by a one-woman dynamo, then basically just lounged all day. Evidently a fire had broken out in a section I had just hiked, and many hikers were being shuttled around and started arriving in great numbers. As previously stated, I was not particularly comfortable being in the bubble and this hike was not turning out to be the experience I was seeking. Started thinking I might like to skip ahead to Washington and broached this idea with friends who might join me. Unsure that was the solution especially with a worrisome family situation brewing at home. Decided to think about my next move as I hiked toward Ashland to pick up my replacement pole parts. Enjoyed dinner with two friendly Canadian men, one of whom had hiked southbound, being supported along the trail by his husband. The hiker of the duo told me Oregon and Washington were wonderful, but he was ending his hike here. He had got what he wanted from the hike, and it felt completed. He also suggested that I take the alternate road walk forward to avoid another burn scar.
So, despite leaning towards being a purist, I took the road walk up to Cook and Green Pass and so glad I did. Very tired of b & b; burn scars and blowdowns! The paved section was meh but once turning to gravel was wonderful. Followed a beautiful creek with many dispersed campsites along the way. Wished I would have known because it would have been great to take my zero at one of them. Stopped at a waterfall where I soaked my feet and rinsed off my legs. As soon as I reached the pass it was back to b & b on the trail, and I only walked a few miles before stopping at the first campsite at 15.5 miles.
Surprised to have heavy condensation upon waking, so a bit of a late start trying to dry everything out. As advertised on the FarOut app the next several miles were a hellish obstacle course and my progress slow. Once clear, the going became much more pleasant. Easy walking, green forest and nice views. Noticed an airplane and helicopter circling, possibly fire spotters. Most hikers pushing to get to Oregon, but I figured I’d spend one more evening in California at the Donomore Cabin. Very cool historic cabin that volunteers are restoring. Even had sleeping cots, picnic table, spring, and a privy. Pretty luxurious for backcountry accommodations! Fireball also was here as he makes his way south to Mt Whitney. Very nice young man from Salt Lake City and was a medical/genetic engineer/scientist or something along those lines that seems to be a profession of many young people. Must be smart! Oregon here I come!
Woke up to 43 degrees and wished I would have used my sleeping pad on the cot as I was cold during the night but didn’t feel like getting up to inflate it or want to disturb Fireball. What a contrast to my first weeks on the trail in a heatwave! Latest I’ve got going so far since I made hot coffee to warm up plus continued chatting with Fireball. Seems my pole parts are slowly making their way to Ashland from Canada, so slowing down on the trail to match pace. Was quite the milestone passing into Oregon! Pretty amazing that I have walked the length of California from the Mexican border to Oregon! Quite proud of that accomplishment! The trail was beautiful today…..loved being in green forest! More calls made when I had service to determine whether to flip north plus check on the homefront. Woohoo….Ashland tomorrow!
Despite camping near a road, it was very quiet and I enjoyed good sleep. Only a mile or so in and had enough service to make some necessary calls and reserve a stay at Callahan’s Lodge just off the trail. Well, if this is typical Oregon hiking, I love it. Gorgeous green forests that smell like Christmas trees and meadows of beautiful wildflowers! Stumbled across a cooler of sodas at one road crossing. Callahan’s Lodge was very inexpensive, and I was lucky to get a free upgrade to a room with a Jacuzzi, fireplace and balcony!!! My pole parts had not made it here yet so think I will try for a ride into the actual town of Ashland 10 miles away to wait for them and figure out my next move.
OMG What a great trail town Ashland turned out to be. Ashland Motel wasn’t as swanky as Callahan’s but reasonably priced, had a pool and was an easy mile long walk to the quaint and attractive downtown. Great breakfast next door at the Morning Glory Cafe and best cortado coffee ever at Case Coffee Roasters a block away. The Ashland Food Coop was amazing, and I was able to resupply from the many healthy choices plus ate there several times. Ashland also, home to a wonderful outfitter where I was able to replace my inflatable pillow that had sprung a leak and resisted my efforts to repair. To top it off Ashland hosted a Shakespeare Festival throughout the summer. Found a skirt at a thrift shop to wear to a play and then purchased a ticket for the Merry Wives of Windsor which was superb. Oh, and attended 2 free outdoor concerts in a downtown park. Needless to say, I spent longer than planned in town and thoroughly enjoyed my stay. Did glance at for sale signs in a realtor’s window, but quite spendy and after 4 nights, it was time to head back to the trail anyway!
I was assisted in my decision to not jump ahead to Washington by an assortment of circumstances, but sweet Songbird agreed to meet me anywhere she could travel to by train since she had purchased a month-long Amtrak pass for her summer adventures and we settled on Chemult, OR. Back to Callahan’s to pick up my hiking pole parts and onward, hiking northbound through Oregon. My pack felt extra heavy after resupplying and I was sluggish. Seemed like the trail wound around Mt. Shasta and I have been able to view it from every angle.
Full moon which often seems to disturb my sleep but not last night, though a bird landing on the ridgeline of my tent just before dawn did startle me awake. I was first out of camp for a change but was soon passed by my campsite neighbors charging ahead. At one point during the day, I sat on a log to rest and drink some water and glanced at the mile marker on my phone app. Remarkably, I was exactly 400 miles in and at the start of week 5. Felt pretty good to cross another milestone though it was hot again and so despite planning another 5 miles, when Hyatt Lake came into view, I descended down to the horse camp and to the lake. Took a long refreshing swim and heck, decided to just set up camp since a pleasant spot. Such a nice luxury to have a picnic table at camp!
Hiked down to Klum Landing Campground on Howard Prairie Lake where I had intended to camp last night. Replenished my water and ate 2nd breakfast. Miles came easier today and before long I had hiked 11 miles to a piped spring where I lunched with a chatty group of hikers. Met 2 young people at a road crossing, Ellie and Elliot. She was traveling in her RV and was from Lake Placid, NY…we chatted about Northville Placid Trail which she of course was familiar with. They told me to be on the lookout for huckleberries in the next section! Yum! Camped next to a log cabin that didn’t look particularly inviting. Rumors of a resident caretaker rat so no one stayed inside! There was a difficult handpump requiring two people to get water. Heard from Songbird that she is enroute to Chemult! So excited for some company but I better pick up the pace!
Didn’t sleep well and late start. Huckleberries were plentiful and slowed me down as I gathered handful after handful. Soon passing through lava fields. The trail maintainers did an incredible job on the trail bed of filling in between the native lava rock with small lava rock used by landscapers as mulch. Must have been quite the operation to haul it out here. Decided I needed a cheeseburger fix and was willing to take the penalty of hiking 4 additional miles off trail to Fish Lake Resort. Have not been feeling particularly hungry but definitely low energy. Amazing how fast you can hike with a cheeseburger as a carrot! It wasn’t the best cheeseburger ever but delicious. Also fries, a large coke and some yummy gelato helped refill the tank. Tried to yogi a ride back to the trail but no luck, so uphill back to the trail it was. Large unfriendly group at the trail head. Ugh! Headed to Freye Lake just .2 off the trail and it was beautiful! Enjoyed a refreshing swim and set up my tent. Very nice young fella called Stretch was my neighbor and we shared good conversation over dinner. He has also noted the chilly reception by some hikers that I have been experiencing too.
Beautiful sunrise on the pond! Started the day feeling a bit despondent but finished feeling pretty good but tired and sore! Huckleberries and Whortleberries galore today! Had some nice interactions with other hikers. Casanova caught up with me. I had met him as I was leaving Ashland and he arriving. He carried a helinox chair which he offered to let me sit in. I declined, telling him that despite being old, I’m one tough cookie! Chuckle! Another burn zone which I understand goes all the way to Crater Lake, now only 25 miles away. Was able to find a ride on a FaceBook trail angel page for Songbird from Chemult to Mazama Village at Crater Lake for our reunion! Hope that dead tree doesn’t decide to fall my way tonight! Was the best I could do!
Bird that sounded like a train horn made a racket at dusk! Got up to pee in the night and the night sky and stars were incredible! Tree didn’t fall so survived the night to hike again! Saw few NOBO hikers today, many going to Trail Days but quite a few SOBO’s. Did meet Matt who lived in Asheville and was familiar with all my beloved hiking trails back home. Said he won’t return after completing his hike because of his Hurricane Helene experience. Trail was beautiful to start but then entered another burn section. Tough finding a safe camping spot with no widow makers! Long water carries but my pack is light so no problem. Appears Songbird is going to beat me to Mazama Village!
Breakfast was on my mind as I hightailed it the 5 miles to Mazama Village! Passed by a hiker who I later learned was Vacuum. Upon reaching the restaurant Vacuum invited me to his table since he was ahead of me on the waitlist. Shortly after Songbird walked through the door and we exchanged big hugs followed by wonderful conversation and a huge breakfast for me, though Vacuum was the definite winner as far as volume of food consumed. Most hikers were headed to Trail Days in Cascade Locks so few campers in the free hiker section. Showered and since no laundromat, sink washed my clothes and then ate more!
Started raining overnight and was forecast to be a daylong event so we decided to stay put and that turned out to be an excellent choice. Ate another big breakfast and then learned we could take a tram up to the Rim. We spent the day admiring the fabulous views and hanging about the rustic lodge. Power was out at Rim Village, but we were still able to order off the limited menu at the lodge. We evidently got on the wrong tram for the return ride because it was a tour. Fun and interesting 2-hour presentation by our guide, Bill and we weren’t thrown off the bus despite not purchasing a ticket. When we were returned to Rim Village and not the campground, we politely asked the driver if he could take us down to Mazama and so he did! Trail magic yet again!
The PCT actually pulls away from Crater Lake, but most hikers take the alternate route that follows the rim and that was our obvious choice too. Songbirds first backpacking adventure since our foray on the Monadnock Sunapee Trail in NH last fall so we planned for a short easy day and took many breaks to admire the everchanging view. I was grateful for the slower pace! We went off trail about .5 miles to camp at Lightening Springs which was a lovely spot. We did hike out and back to the rim to catch the sunset.
Beautiful walk along the rim until reconnecting back with the PCT. Water and trail magic treats at the water cache. Lots of SOBO’s! Ran into license plate man again who I had originally met at the cabin with the difficult hand pump. Since he had gone to Trail Days I had got ahead of him. He had picked the license plate up at the side of the road early on and decided to carry it. I asked if it was ultralight and he responded that of course, it was titanium. So, I had to think of ways to multipurpose a license plate. Well, could be used to dig an extra-large cat hole, used as a stove wind break, level out an uneven campsite or swat pesky mosquitoes. We bonked towards the end of the day so camped at N Crater Lake Trailhead. Picnic table, privy and dinner with Mystery Soup who Songbird entertained with incredibly hilarious stories about her train travels! So happy to have a fun hiking partner!
Brrr cold morning at 42 degrees! Met a group of 5 pastors that were camped next to us last night. They hike for a week together each year. Mt Thielsen was quite impressive, and many hikers took the side trip to peak bag! Fairly easy hiking to Thielsen Creek, our only water source today other than an early water cache. Beautiful spot and we spent some time lunching and cleaning up. The pastors caught up with us, and the leader, Teflon asked about the family situation that I had alluded to earlier that was causing me to probably need to leave the trail. He made me feel very comfortable as I explained the situation. He then said a beautiful heartfelt prayer for my family that brought tears to my eyes. Passed over the highest peak on the Oregon section of the PCT. Camped at a fabulous spot a mile further. As usual many more arrived after us. Nice sunset!
Even better sunrise next morning enjoyed while sipping the excellent coffee Mudsmeller had gifted me after the Centennial Trail! `Cruisy trail through beautiful pine and hemlock forest! We had carried enough water from the stream yesterday so avoiding having to get more from a long steep access to a spring. Took several nice breaks, meeting Mosie a 62-year-old thru hiker. Finally, someone hiking from our demographic! Fascinating to listen to Songbirds take on the state of our world and the conversation was deep. So deep that I distractedly did something really stupid at one of our breaks! I left my phone on a log and did not discover my error until 2.5 miles further on! Songbird generously offered to trail run back to retrieve it while I took care of the gear. I felt terrible after agreeing to this scenario and especially after several hikers told me she was miles beyond where I knew I had left it. I hung our packs on a limb and started to walk back too and met her about a mile back. Needless to say, she did go a little bit beyond the log but turned around and found it on the return. What a good friend!!!! We arrived at the water cache at Windigo Pass just as trail angel Devilfish who coincidently had shuttled Songbird to Crater Lake, stopped by to replenish supplies. We helped out then decided to camp in the vicinity, especially since Songbird had put in 5 extra credit miles.
We ran into Tumble who I had met previously at Callahan’s and Spider who she is hiking with as they practiced their yoga asanas trailside. Super nice people! Highlight today was a refreshing swim in beautiful Summit Lake. We relaxed for some time enjoying handfuls of huckleberries growing lakeside! It seems that to successfully thru hike, one must push on and grind out mileage, but for me some of the best moments are the spontaneous pauses such as we enjoyed at Summit Lake and probably why I never seem to be able to complete the long trails in one go. We did run out of steam later on and camped a few miles shy of our goal. Lots of mosquitoes as we had been told there would be in this segment and forced to eat dinner in our respective tents.
Packed everything up in the tent because of the mosquito pressure. Many lakes and ponds, some stagnant and others lovely. Fairly easy hike into Shelter Cove RV Park. A couple in camper picked us and 2 other hikers up on the road walk section and offered bananas and cold water treats! Shower, laundry and my birthday feast; delicious smash burger, fries and salad washed down with tall boy IPA! Oh yes then ice cream for dessert! Met interesting hiker, Pisses in the Wind from Atlanta area. He is SOBO and been nursing shin splints. Lots of hikers here who we have met over the past week including Tumble, Spider and Mystery Soup.
Our intention was to hike a few more days to where Songbird could exit at Sisters/Bend. My son and I share the same birthday, and he called to exchange birthday wishes! He also asked me to come home and assist him and my grandchildren. I woke up early the next morning and witnessed a beautiful sunset on Odell Lake and reflected on what I needed to do. It occurred to me that rather than rush the hike to meet deadlines, that maybe we should try to make our way to Bend from our current location.
Songbird was on board with my proposal, particularly when I found a beautiful Airbnb apartment in Bend where we could stay for 3 nights before heading home. I posted a ride request on FaceBook and within the hour were hastily packing up our gear and meeting the wonderful and amazing Windchime willing to drive us the 70 odd miles to Bend. She had been hiking the trail herself but had come off to take advantage of an invitation to visit Hawaii and then head off to her first year of college. We were so lucky and impressed to meet such a self-assured, confident and kind young woman!
Bend was wonderful!
So thankful for Songbird’s company on the last part of this hike! She really helped lift my spirits! Also, very grateful to the kind hikers and trail angels that I met on my journey! As I reflect on my hike, I have tried to focus on the beauty and positive experiences but there were some things that disappointed me. The PCT culture is to form tight tramilies, groups of hikers that hike together. On this go around, I found a few of these groups to be unwelcoming and did experience some ageism. The solitude and simplicity of interacting with nature is what keeps pulling me back to the trail but being in the bubble of thru hikers somewhat distracted me from that experience this time. I do like to finish what I start and hope at some point that I am able to finish hiking the PCT and would love to find a like-minded partner to hike the rest of Oregon and Washington! I hear that some of the best parts of the trail are yet to come!
575.4 Miles hiked, 1908.2 PCT miles completed!
“To travel, to experience and learn: that is to live.” – Tenzing Norgay