I was determined to make this year the year I headed back to take care of some unfinished business on the PCT, so early July found me making my way to Chester, California where I had ended my 2022 hike. I had exited at Chester after walking through the newly opened Dixie Fire burn scar which many fellow hikers skipped that year. I had forgotten how difficult that section was, though I was pretty trail tough by that time having hiked over 1300 miles. This year I still had more of that burn scar to hike and as it turned out several additional burn areas to negotiate. Though no fires stopped me this year, there were fires adjacent to the trail that created smoky conditions and unhealthy air quality. Add in a heat advisory during my first weeks and unmaintained trail with difficult blowdowns to negotiate, and well, my hike didn’t always go as I had imagined. I must admit it wasn’t all misery, in fact when the trail was not passing through burn scars, it was incredibly beautiful. PCT hikers talk about the NorCal Blues, and it definitely is a thing, though for me it was more about the difficult conditions than hiking weariness.
Many hikers hike right through Lassen National Park in one day because of its bear can requirement, but I didn’t have my trail legs yet and was unable to do so. I had recently purchased the new Adotek Grizzly Bear bag for my food, so was legal to camp. I swam in Swan Lake and camped next to Soap Lake with a beautiful view of Lassen Peak in the distance. When I reached Old Station, it was brutally hot, and I was seriously struggling. I am used to physical work outside in the hot and humid southeast, but western heat is very dry and definitely different. I intended to camp in the campground but asked about the availability of a room and fortunately the last one was available. I took it, no questions asked! Shower and laundry then luxuriated in the air-conditioning for the next 18 hours.
Although relieved to be finally done with Lassen National Park, little did I know that next up, Hat Creek Rim was going to be a bruiser too. Excellent breakfast at JJ’s Cafe then interesting walk through the Subway Cave Lava Tubes. Had to dig my headlamp out of my pack to see my way but it was wonderfully cool inside and very interesting. The climb up to the rim was tough. Triple digit temps and I was so thirsty. Kept stopping in any miniscule of shade to catch my breath and sip on my water. When I got to the overlook up top, I jealously eyed a couple refilling their dog’s water bowl. Realizing I hadn’t brought enough water, I sheepishly asked if they had any extra they could spare. They gladly obliged and also offered me a cold sparkling water too. Thank you!!!! Another overlook and Trail Angel, Steve had more water available and I cameled up. Incredibly a secret water cache maintained by legendary Trail Angel, Outside Jay a little further on. I was not going to die of dehydration although little shade for the next 40 or so miles and 10 miles to the next water cache.
Don’t remember much about the hike to Cache22 except it was brutally hot, What a great play on words in naming the cache! As I approached the road where I expected to find the tank, it was like a mirage in the desert to see camp chairs surrounding a pickup truck parked in the shade and the welcoming smile of Trail Angel, MagicMan. At his invitation, I downed a Coke and then a liter of Gatorade before replenishing my water from the Cache22 tank. MagicMan travels up and down the trail helping hikers and was very pleasant and kind. I chatted with him for some time and learned that coincidently his sister lived near me in Brevard, NC.
Exited Hat Creek Rim and set my sights on Burney Mountain Guest Ranch. Hikers can camp for free but I chose to stay in the airconditioned bunkhouse, the only woman among 4 men. Everyone very nice and respectful! Great food and best of all a refreshing dip in the pool. Christina and Kyran, the new owners were lovely people and very hiker friendly.
Contemplated staying another night but decided to forge on and make it a short day to Burney Falls State Park where I had sent a resupply box. Free camping and showers for PCT hikers. The falls were spectacular!
My first week on trail had me questioning my sanity, but the temps finally moderated, though it was quite smoky. Entered living forest and plus I passed the 100-mile mark which made me feel better. Detected the unpleasant smell of a plant called Mountain Misery which I remembered from hiking on the Colorado Trail. My destination turned out to be perfect for cowboy camping. Enjoyed dinner with fellow hiker, Ghost who splits his off-trail time between Canada and Norway. He told me that many hikers had never camped alone on the trail, and I revealed that a night camping alone is often my preference. Go figure….me, a hiker that enjoys solitude! I’m a weirdo! Woke up several times and star gazed at the incredible night sky from my comfy cocoon!
Best sleep yet and overslept. Enjoyed easy hiking today and caught my first glimpse of Mount Shasta.
I was woken in the night by something nudging my head and pushing against the tent. Yelled and banged the wall of my tent, terrified that it was a bear. Yes, I’ll admit, like many PCT hikers I slept with my food every night! I struggled to find my headlamp and finally turned it on to see a buck mule deer with huge rack peering in at me through the screen of my tent. More yelling and he lost interest and bounded off. Cruisy trail allowed for my biggest mileage yet: 20-miles! Camped at Ash Camp on the McCloud River with 3 other women, Eatin(sp?) from Taiwan, Chisa from Japan and Snackcident from the UK. A car camper shared some delicious bread and sausage plus we camped under a plum tree loaded with delicious ripe fruit from which I ate my fill. Super day!
Last one out of camp but pleasant trail yet again that led to beautiful Squaw Valley Creek. I spent several hours relaxing and soaking my feet in the cold creek and drinking the refreshing water. Found trail magic under a bridge. Decided to push on but unfortunately didn’t see the switchback turn the PCT made and hiked .6 miles on another trail before realizing my error. Extra credit for me today! Had hoped to get a bit further along to position myself for town the next day but the last 2 miles were a climb, and I was discouraged and done for the day.
I had been embracing the idea of the Nero when going into town. So, unlike a Zero which involves a day of no hiking and consequently two nights in town, a Nero involves positioning oneself for a short hike to get to the road leading into town leaving the afternoon for chores such a shower, laundry, resupply and most importantly eating decent food. I have been maximizing my one-night lodging stay by waiting until check out to figure my way back to the trail the following morning. Because of the previous day’s trail mistake, I still had a fair distance to hike to get to the road to Mt Shasta but was fortunate to see a bear enroute. Cruised to the road and very happy to see MagicMan generously serving refreshments again to weary hikers! Doc provided a ride into town.
Mt Shasta was a funky and interesting town but on the pricey side. Lots of hikers and it appears I am now in the bubble of nobo thru-hikers. Sub-par motel for the price. Pretty sure I was assigned the “hiker” room that had yet to be renovated and upgraded! Good eats and resupply plus a new pair of shoes. My new Topo Pursuits were not working out for me so back to Altra Lone Peaks it was! Talked to my loyal and dear friend, Songbird and she may join me for a spell after visiting her daughter in Denver.
Took an alternate trail back to the PCT because of a closure and which then involved some road walking. Happy to see Eatin and Chisa again at the trailhead as I entered Castle Crags. Because of the later start I only walked 6.2 miles but found a nice campsite next to a stream. Lots of hikers showed up and the spot was quite crowded and noisy. As I was setting up my tent, noticed a red tag on the ground and turns out it was imprinted with MagicMans info. Evidently, he passes these out and since I am an advocate of LNT (leave no trace), I now have one stashed in my hiking wallet. Up next was quite a lot of climbing but spectacular scenery. Excited to see a native carnivorous pitcher plant called Darlingtonia californica. A botanist I had met near Burney had told me to keep an eye out for them in this section. Beautiful campsite again and my kind neighbors volunteered to fetch me water from the spring! There are some advantages to being the old lady out here!
Beautiful starry night and another day of amazing views! Stopped at beautiful Porcupine Lake for lunch, a foot soak and a bandana bath. Some were swimming but a little too cool for me for the full immersion. Tempted to stay but pushed on through a rocky section with a huge array of flora, hosting lots of pollinators, butterflies and hummingbirds. Being a plant nerd, I really enjoyed this section, and it slowed me down considerably as I kept stopping for a closer look. Nice conversation with Scottish hiker, Snafu. Was hoping to go further but bonked and stopped at Parks Creek Trailhead completing week 2 and 200 miles.
An early start like 6-6:30 am seems to be the ticket to getting more miles in for me. Loved this section with cruisy trail and great views. More Darlingtonia californica sighted! Disappointed to learn I had lost my beloved tie-dye bandana but when stopped at a spring for water, Pink Panda arrived and pulled it out of her pocket. She had found it on a bush and recognized that it might be important to someone. Loved her hiking attire which included a pink tutu! Afternoon thunder brought some hail. Stopped at Scott Mountain Campground with its luxurious privy and picnic tables. Chatted with a woman traveling in her van and then after dark a lot of noise and sounded like a huge semi-truck parking next to my campsite. Next morning I found out it was actually two fire trucks and a crew of Forest Service wildland firefighters heading back to their base in Chester. Some in tents but most cowboy camping or sleeping under the trucks. Pleasant men and women who obviously stay busy out here in the fire prone west!
Excited to head into the Trinity Alps. Even heard cowbells similar to Europe though never saw any cows. Unfortunately, the afternoon involved hiking through another burn scar although many wildflowers beginning to grow around the snags, in fact some of the meadows were quite stunning. Afternoon thunder again but thankfully no lightning. Decided to hike off trail to camp at Hidden Horse Camp. Supposed to have a pack animal to stay but figuring I qualify since I am hauling my pack around on my back and am a member of the kingdom animalia. Only 1 other group camped with horses.
Some sort of bird or beast making a noise like a saw being sharpened last night. Went on and on so eventually got out of my tent and shone my headlamp around and it finally shut up though never identified. Late start due to necessity of needing to make some calls. Again, beautiful morning views until another burn section and also lots of smoke. Camped at beautiful Payne Lake and took a refreshing swim. Lots of fish jumping! Enjoyed some solitude but the herd soon arrived, and I had many neighbors.
Morning breakfast and coffee enjoyed overlooking Payne Lake. I loved this beautiful campsite!
Some snow to negotiate on the short distance to the road crossing where I hoped to yogi a ride into the town of Etna. Fortunately secured a ride with 3 other hikers with an elderly and hard of hearing Trail Angel called Molly. Several complaints on the FarOut app about her erratic driving and must admit they were accurate. We drove at an astonishing rate of speed down the steep curvy road, crossing into the oncoming lane at every curve, but did reach town alive but in wide-eyed shock, that is all except the unflappable Molly. Lots of hikers in town with much competition for services, supplies, and accommodations and I was not particularly thrilled about this turn of events. I had been able to secure the last room at the Etna Motel, which was very comfortable and affordable. Enjoyed a great burger and beer at Etna Brewing. Arranged a ride for my return to the trail the following day but not with Molly!
Saw a rattlesnake soon after getting back on trail. Didn’t feel particularly strong and took lots of breaks, watching the many helicopters taking water to the Butler Fire which is evidently huge and to the west of the trail. Didn’t pay enough attention to water sources so stopped at the spur to Cub Spring just as a thunderstorm erupted. Quite an open and exposed spot but quickly put up my tent next to a Belgian couple to wait out the storm. He had not been able to find the spring, but I was fortunately able to locate it once the storm had passed and carried extra water to share with my nice neighbors. Many others had arrived and again we had quite the crowded tent village. Beautiful sunset!
Tough hiking through the recent Summit Fire that was ongoing when I started but recently got under control. Could still smell the smoke and the many burnt, and fallen trees created an obstacle course. Nice conversation with Penthouse who was from the Gardena area of the Dolomites where I traveled and hiked 2 years ago. When the views and trail were good today it was gorgeous, but the burnt sections were dismal. Highlight was reaching a difficult pass and Man Eaten Lake coming into view. Met my first south bounder today! Afternoon thunderboomers again but stayed behind me and I remained dry. Marble Valley with its stream and abandoned ranger station made for a good campsite.
The day started out great with green forest and beautiful views plus I was starting my fourth week on trail and passed the 300-mile mark. Enjoyed second breakfast at Paradise Lake but then after lunch things went south in another burnt section. So many blow downs and the trail became an obstacle course yet again and very hard to follow in sections. Some downed trees were so large that it was impossible for me to climb over, and I had to resort to going around by climbing down steep embankments and then climbing back up to the trail on all fours. I didn’t capture any pics of this section as I was just intent on not getting lost or hurting myself. Catastrophe struck as I crossed the last stream to my intended campsite. There was a FarOut warning about slippery rocks, but I watched a woman ahead of me easily hop across. As I attempted my crossing I found the slippery rocks and fell, getting a good soaking but worse was that one of my new Durston hiking poles broke. Not only do I rely on my poles to hike but they keep my tent up at night. Managed to duct tape for a temporary fix but this calamity put me in a sour mood.
Tough hiking with only 1 pole and pondered all morning on how to solve my dilemma. Thought about possibly skipping the next section and trying to find a ride to Ashland and the outfitter there. Met up with 2 young men from Hong Kong, Sour Skittles and Pringles who were extremely nice. They pointed out the significance of passing the border into Oregon and made me rethink my possible plans since I had not skipped anything so far. We had great conversations about a myriad of subjects. We got trail magic on the road walking section when a woman stopped and gave us cold alcoholic seltzer. Could have done without the alcohol but accepted and enjoyed, nonetheless. Wondered why I had such a pleasant conversation with these hikers when I have had a really hard time connecting with many of the young people on the trail, then remembered that unlike our culture, many Eastern cultures revere, and respect older people and I suppose I do fall into that category now. Finally reached Seiad Valley, the last town in California on the trail. Excellent hamburger and fries at the cafe! Sent an email to Durston about my pole and started reaching out about a ride to Ashland. The lady running the general store made me a hitching sign and told me that was my best bet though I did get a Facebook offer for a ride the next day from the seltzer lady. The Belgian couple I met several days ago arrived and when I told them about my dilemma, she went rooting in the hiker box I hadn’t noticed and pulled out a worn-out pole. No tip but it would work. They recommended the Wildwood RV Park just up the road and I joined them camping beside a lovely river. Heard back from Dan Durston himself and it appeared he would send replacement pole parts to Ashland, and I would be able to continue on with the hiker box pole. Ton of hikers arrived but I was just not into the big loud social scene of the young crowd. Felt beat up and decided to take my first zero and plan out the next section. Less than 1000 miles to go!
