PCT: VVR to Sonoma Pass

Back on the trail and more fantastic views yet again. Only a few days of hiking before another opportunity to stop in town, this time the touristy ski town of Mammoth Lakes. I had been hiking near Happy Hour for a few days and we both decided to hike down to town rather than take the typical Red’s Meadow bus. We hiked down the scenic Horseshoe Lake Trail and were able catch a free bus the short distance to town. Lots of trees down on parts of this trail and it looked like a forest graveyard. I suspected perhaps insect infestation or disease, but actually a 1989 earthquake caused high concentrations of CO2 in the soil and the resulting devastation.

A trail ambassador greeted us as we got off the bus and had great information for a hiker stay in town. She directed us to the The Breakfast Club which she claimed is where all the locals ate. Delicious! Spent the day as is typical. Shower, laundry, resupply, eating! Great outfitter here and purchased my third pair of shoes. Happy to run into Zest at the laundromat who I hadn’t seen since the desert.

The following day I decided to use the public bus system to slackpack (hike with minimal gear in my pack) and spend another night in town. So, back to Horseshoe Lake on the bus and up to the PCT. So pleasant to hike with a very light pack and I made good time. Highlight of the day was viewing Devils Postpile, a strange rock formation of columnar basalt evidently formed by cooling volcanic lava 100,000 years ago.

Exited the PCT at Agnew Meadows Trailhead after 11.7 + the Horseshoe Lake Trail 3.5 miles and caught the bus back into town. Found Professor Pinecone and her saplings taking a break here and she encouraged me to catch up to them the next day, though sadly I never did.

Standing room only on the bus ride back up to the trailhead the next day.

Though I saw lots of evidence of horses on the trail, finally saw my first ranger led pack train!

Next stop was 1000 Island Lake, a huge body of water dotted with many islands. Bumped into the sweet couple, Snuffleupagus (Snuffy) and Fluff Seed (Fluffy) again, who I initially met at Kennedy Meadows South. They are on the 2nd year of section hiking the trail and make many side trips and bag as many high peaks as possible, definitely personalizing their own hike. They plan on marrying next year and completing the trail on their honeymoon. Good people!

There was word of a wildfire in the Yosemite valley and smoke could definitely be seen and could certainly be smelled in the evening but dissipated by morning.

As I hiked towards Tuolumne Meadows the trail became quite lovely, staying relatively flat with many streams and small lakes. I had my permit checked by a Ranger for the first and only time. I think he was mostly warning hikers that a bear had recently gotten some improperly stored food ahead. No bear encounters, though deer and marmots were abundant.

Took the short side trip to Tuolumne Meadows store and grazed through their food selections. Unfortunately the cafe was closed but I found plenty of delicious eats and hung out at the hikers picnic table for several hours before returning to the trail.

Took a short detour to check out the Parsons Memorial Lodge, a former Sierra Club meeting place and the adjacent Soda Springs. Cold effervescent water bubbles out of the spring and I had to give it a taste, running it through my filter of course. Tasted good to me!

The terrain began to change again as the trail followed the Tuolumne River with its many spectacular waterfalls. Spent the night at Glen Aulin Sierra Camp, closed due to Covid but no one prohibiting camping. The area was huge so a little irritated by a group of 4, noisily making camp well after dark right next to me at the sweet little spot I had found. Ah well!

The trail in northern Yosemite has a reputation of becoming progressively more difficult with its loose rock strewn trail and steep passes. It was a hot day when I reached Miller Lake and it was not as cold as some of the other alpine lakes , so I took my one and only swim in the Sierra’s. Refreshing!

So when I reached the 1000 milestone this is what my calves looked like. Rest of me a bit scrawny and scruffy!

I was looking forward to reaching Sonora Pass and the end of having to carry a bear can. I was quite taken back by the stark but beautiful landscape before reaching the road. And still some snow too!

Kennedy Meadows North is a great place to celebrate the end of the High Sierra’s. Shared a bunk room with Torch who had started her AT hike at Mt Katahdin shortly after I started there August 2018, so we figured we must have met somewhere that year, though neither of us remembered the other.