A lot of thought and discussion went into where I would celebrate my birthday hike with the Chicas! South Dakota’s Centennial Trail and New England were all on the table but we finally settled on Colorado. Slipper, who I erroneously referred to in past posts as Lady Slipper, and Songbird hiked Segments 4-7 last year while I was hiking Vermont’s Long Trail and were eager to return. I had visited Colorado with my family as a child and also about 10 years ago for a work conference, so was excited to visit again. The Colorado Trail is 486 miles long and most hikers hike southbound from Denver towards Durango so as to acclimate to the elevation. Initially only a week long hike was planned but I decided to go early and knock out Segments 1-7 before meeting up with my friends. Songbird and I then made the decision to continue on for another 10 days after Slipper returned home and back to work.
Day 1: August 11
I took a direct early morning flight to Denver out of Asheville on my favorite airline, Allegiant. Despite many complaints about this airline, I’ve not had a problem so far. It’s inexpensive, get’s you from point A to point B and I know what comforts to expect…..pretty much zilch! Hey, I’m a minimalist backpacker and used to carrying my own water and snacks, though those seats were not comfy at all. I find a wilderness log more pleasant and inviting to sit upon than those seats! I arrived in Denver at 9:45 am and negotiated the train downtown and hoofed it over to REI to pick up a fuel cannister, then another train to the end of the line at Littleton/Mineral and finally Uber to the Waterton Canyon trailhead. I started hiking about 2 pm and it was a sweltering 96°F. I have had a career working outside in southern heat so figured hot weather would be no problem. I didn’t take into account that Colorado heat is dry heat and I was soon guzzling water like nobodies business. The first 7 miles were a road walk, though no vehicles except bicycles and a few utility trucks but still very pleasant. Fortunately there were shaded picnic areas every mile or so where I stopped to rest and guzzle more water.
A herd of bighorn sheep is known to inhabit the canyon and I was lucky enough to observe some near an employee residence along the road. Finally reached the single track path and a bench called Lenny’s Rest and knew I wasn’t going any further despite it not being a particularly flat spot to camp. I didn’t feel well, very shaky and nauseous which I assume was on account of being dehydrated on top of a long day of travel. I forced myself to eat some granola since I had foolishly not eaten since breakfast and drank more water. 1248 air miles+7.9 trail miles today!
Day 2: August 12
Woke up feeling much better and excited to be on my way. The morning views were quite splendid for this east coast hiker despite the distant haze caused by the California wildfires! And whoa, the wildflowers!
After lunch I descended down to the South Platte River and the end of segment 1. Met fellow hiker, John from Ohio, and we commiserated on how to tackle the next section, which was through a burn area with no water for 13 miles. My idea was to wait until later in the day when it cooled off and hike up to the ridge with 4 liters of water, camp for the night, then finish while cooler next morning. I set myself up in some shade and rinsed off body and clothing in the river, took a nap then enjoyed an early dinner before starting the climb.
Enjoyed this section much more than I anticipated. The long range views were quite outstanding! The area was recovering nicely from the fire with an abundance of wildflowers. Found a nice spot to camp on a ridge and John arrived shortly after. I hadn’t realized he had hurt himself and was suffering from considerable hip pain. He was hoping for some NSAID relief over night. 11.3 miles today
Day 3: August 13
A tremendous lightning storm lit up the surrounding mountains last night and I have to admit thinking to myself that I could die tonight if it moves over our ridgeline campsite. Morning found John still in pain and he decided he was getting off trail and heading home. He had planned the hike for some time and was understandably very disappointed. The trail passed through a forested area before moving back into more burn areas. Saw my first mule deer!
As I neared the end of the dry section, a mountain biker stopped to chat and offer me an ice cold fruity sparkling water. Delicious and much appreciated trail magic! At the road I rested at the nearby fire station as I refilled my water bottles. Again, so appreciative of the kindness towards thirsty hikers. As I hiked on I came upon a wonderful campsite with a wooden chair and my own personal cave and though I could have hiked a bit further, decided to take advantage of such pleasant amenities. Ate dinner under the shelter of the cave as rain fell briefly. 12 miles today
Day 4: August 14
Short day today since my intention was to stop at Bailey for my previously mailed resupply box. I had not wanted to carry a lot of food initially while I got used to hiking at elevation. There was a fundraiser hike supporting the Make a Wish foundation, so lots of hikers and trail runners in addition to a good number of mountain bikers on the trail. I actually had enough food to hike another section but was unsure of how easy it would be to get to Bailey from the trail head at Segment 4. I ended Segment 3 at Wellington Lake Rd and asked the MAW folks if anyone would be willing to give me a ride. No dice, so reluctantly started hiking the dusty gravel road toward town with my thumb extended. Third car was a charm! He was a hiker and she was from Charleston SC where I once lived. Such lovely friendly trail angels and they took me right to the Lynwood Park Hostel. Bill and Lynn were charming hosts and I chose to camp on the grounds next to the scenic river rather than inside the hostel. 9.5 miles today
Day 5: August 15
Bill drove me back to the trailhead after trying to convince me to stay another night so I could get used to the elevation and be prepared for the next section. It was a pleasant and restful stop and I could easily have been persuaded but did need to move on to meet up with Slipper and Songbird in a few days. Segment 4 entered the Lost Creek Wilderness area and was beautiful. The trail eventually entered a long meadow and I really enjoyed this section, though thankful for the cloud cover that moderated the temperature.
Found a great little campsite in some trees with a stream nearby. Great sunset! 13.8 miles today
Day 6: August 16
Most mornings I have woken with a little headache and felt a bit nauseous which I have blamed on elevation and today was no different. It usually goes away once I start hiking. Not every day on the trail is all happiness and wonderful views and today proved to be such a day for me. When I checked my phone for service at a break I learned that my dear friend Deb had lost her husband, Tom to cancer over the weekend. Also another friend and vendor at the Farmer’s Market I participate in had succumbed very quickly to recently diagnosed cancer the following day. Made me so sad! Lots of fallen trees today didn’t do much to elevate my mood. I did startle a herd of mule dear drinking from a stream and as they all dashed away up the hillside, I thought to myself, Tom and Greg are running free and out of pain with that herd now! RIP friends! 10 miles today
Day 7: August 17
I camped early last night at a lovely site next to Rock Creek and as is often the case with a single wall tent, expected condensation when camped in a meadow next to water. What I didn’t expect was frost on the interior of my tent! Wow it was quite chilly last night! Even had ice in my water bottles! So here in Colorado you are forbidden to leave toilet paper in your morning cat hole because it takes too long to decompose in such an arid climate. Songbird had informed me about using a bidet and that seemed like a great solution to avoid carrying out dirty tp in your trash. Mixed feelings on this approach so far, and this probably falls in the too much information category, but let me tell you, an ice water bidet is a very unpleasant sensation first thing in the morning! Enough said on that subject!
Today I quickly reached Kenosha Pass where I somehow lost my CT databook. Also the water pump at the forest campground was turned off because of contamination and this I found out after just guzzling the last of my water. Some day hikers completing their hike bailed me out by giving me the remainder of their water. I had intended to hike to Jefferson Creek to camp but lots of reports of a pesky bear on the Guthooks App., so stopped shy of it at Deadmans Creek. 11.7 miles today
Day 8: August 18
More great views today! Highlight was the climb up to spectacular above tree line Georgia Pass and the Continental Divide where I enjoyed lunch. My camp site was a bit strange. Turns out I was near a road and lots of ATVers rumbling around. Looking forward to reaching Breckinridge tomorrow! 14.4 miles today
Day 9: August 19
Despite the cloudy day and enough rain to cause me to carry my umbrella for a time, I really enjoyed todays hike. Loved all the grey foliage plants in the landscape, one in particular that looked like lavender but with a unique smell. Felt great to cross the 100 mile mark and then just a few more miles to the bus stop and free ride into Breckinridge and a stay at the Fireside Inn Hostel. 13.4 miles today
Day 10: August 20
Well the idea was to spend last night at the Fireside Inn then hike section 7 today to meet up with Slipper and Songbird tomorrow morning. I could do this as a slackpack using the bus system but I’m just exhausted and in much need of a zero day of hiking, plus Breck is pretty nice and I want to explore! What the heck I’m taking a zero and they agreed to pick me up in the morning here at the hostel. I will have to connect the hiking dots sometime in the future! The hostel is very comfortable! Breck is lovely!
