Why has hiking and backpacking along a remote trail become my passion and obsession is a question I ask myself and is sometimes asked of me. Well, besides visiting the unspoiled beauty of wild places, getting up-close with nature and just simple things like a beautiful sunset or the starry night sky, there is the exhilarating challenge to the body; the power felt in the legs and feet, the clearing of the head and the personal growth that occurs as I realize I am stronger than I thought! The trail often humbles me with its many obstacles and the weather can bring me to my knees. I am challenged both physically and mentally on a daily basis. Days end finds me tired, with angry and loudly complaining body parts. A hot meal and a good night’s rest makes everything seem possible again the next morning. Life becomes simple as I live in the moment and my needs are minimal. Despite learning to appreciate the solitude of trail life, I also love interacting with others encountered on my journey. Trail life often brings people to their core and raw self and as a friend eloquently explained, it peels away the layers. Appearance, age, education and wealth don’t matter. There is no pretense and so many interactions are truly genuine and authentic. Some encounters are brief but memorable, others make more of an impression. I find it true that a long hike confirms that goodness and kindness prevail in the world despite what the news would have us believe. Yes, I will continue to hike and explore the backcountry and wild places as long as I am able.
I am extremely fortunate in having wonderful friends that appreciate the hiking life too. When my dear Vermont friend, Trail Dawgz, who I met on trail in 2017, announced that he and his adorable pup, Pax planned on completing the southern section of the Appalachian Trail from Hot Springs to Springer Mountain, I was eager to join the expedition. I had hiked this section previously and looked forward to revisiting this beautiful stretch of trail, plus I had recently come off the PCT and was in serious withdrawal.
It was a 3-day hike from Hot Springs to Standing Bear Farm near the entrance to the Smokies. I was pleased to see the tiny elf diorama that I had first noticed this spring was still there. Looks like preparations for winter were being made with the wheelbarrow full of firewood. We passed over one of my favorite places, Max Patch and fortunately it was a clear day to take in the magnificent views.
Since dogs are prohibited in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Pax was going to take a brief hiatus with my daughter, Klaire at Smoky Bear Campground in Cosby. We decided to flip-flop through the Smokies just like Mudsmeller, Cutie and I did back in 2017. So off to Newfound Gap to hike north back to Standing Bear. Not long before enjoying the fabulous views from the iconic Charlies Bunion.
Another iconic stop the following day required a 1/2-mile detour up to the Mt. Cammerer fire tower.
Near Standing Bear Farm, we encountered one of two bear sightings. A mother bear with 2 cubs crossed the gravel road near the I-40 interchange. The other sighting, strangely enough, was later in downtown Gatlinburg.
Some car shuffling before resuming southbound again from Newfound Gap. Chatted with some volunteer trail maintainers and before too long arrived at another iconic landmark, Clingmans Dome. I have been there many times and finally rewarded with a clear day. Every other time it was raining or socked in with fog and on the AT in 2017 was closed to visitors.
I really like the next section though it is tougher trail than north of Newfound Gap. Much of my remaining mileage on the 900-miler challenge is on the side trails in this area. Incredible to run into Banana Man dressed all in yellow, who I had met on the PCT in California earlier in the year. He remembered an interesting and obscure fact about me that I evidently had told him.
The night spent at Spence Field turned out to be extremely gusty and windy. One tenter suffered a branch falling on their tent though thankfully no damage and not a widow maker. Lots of thrus in the shelter and a group of Asheville Trail Maintainers camped. I had thought I would hike down the Eagle Creek Trail for my 900-miler challenge and then meet back up with Trail Dawgz at Birch Spring Gap. The wind was unrelenting and forecast to continue blowing all day, so we decided to descend down on Eagle Creek together for safety’s sake. It descended quickly and steeply into more pleasant conditions. Also, another example of me not reading my little brown book, Hiking Trails of the Smokies beforehand and taking note that there were 15 stream crossings on this trail! Early ones could be rock hopped, but I finally gave in and waded through in my trail shoes. Not particularly cold and my Altra LonePeaks performed admirably. Darn Tough socks are comfortable even when wet. We finally intersected with the Lakeshore Trail and headed toward Fontana Dam. Interesting to see rusty car skeletons left behind by earlier inhabitants of the area.
Exited the Smokies at Fontana Dam and time to pick up Pax! He seemed to have enjoyed his campground stay and Klaire’s attention. Such a sweet dog and Klaire really fell for him, as had all the campground workers and guests. Took a day of rest at Smoky Bear Campground and enjoyed Klaire and Patrick’s wonderful hospitality and Trail Dawgz generous treat of dinner in town for us all. Fun to walk across the street from the campground to the Old Settlers Trail and stroll around the old Tyson McCarter Farm. Interestingly, the family only had daughters and they did all the work on the farm including some impressive stone wall construction.
Back to Fontana Dam to continue south. Although a stop in Franklin was planned, a resupply was not necessary, and we trekked on toward Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC). The weather took a decidedly cooler turn though still manageable. I remember hiking this section with Frolicking Dinosaur in May 2018. The Mountain Laurel was in full bloom and wildflowers in abundance. Always interesting to hike a familiar trail in different seasons!
Upon arriving at NOC, the weather forecast did not look good with remnants of Hurricane Nicole taking aim at our location. We had one good day before a full day of rain was forecast, so found shuttle driver, Patrice to give us a ride south to Burningtown Gap and slackpacked north back to NOC. Patrice had once lived in Trail Dawgz home state of Vermont, and they seemed to know some of the same people, and she reminisced fondly about her time there. Highlight of this section was Wesser Bald with its observation tower. We could see the bad weather rolling in but managed to make it back to NOC mostly dry.
The following rainy day was spent lounging around the hostel and eating! It did rain all day but fortunately not the forecast amounts. Fun to watch some hardcore kayakers negotiating the rapids. Walked 1/2 mile up the road to find supplies at a better stocked store than the one at NOC.
The following day, Patrice shuttled us back to Burningtown Gap and we proceeded south. Wayah Bald tower was socked in and cold and we didn’t linger. Definite chill in the air and woke up the following morning at the Siler Bald Shelter to a light dusting of snow, frozen condensation on the interior of my tent and my sleeping quilt slightly damp. Slushy ice had formed in my water bottle!
Stopped for lunch at a sunny spot to dry out our gear. Accommodations for the evening were found at the fairly new Long Branch Shelter. I had previously spent a night here in the fall of 2016. Despite wet wood, we were able to get a fire going to ward off some of the chill though turned out not to be quite as cold as the previous night.
The climb up Albert Mountain was not as difficult as I had remembered it to be in 2016. I guess I was hiking in the opposite direction that year plus pretty new to carrying a pack any distance.
Trail Dawgz was feeling pretty bushed so didn’t make the climb up the side trail to Standing Indian Mountain. I was feeling a little down in the dumps and the fantastic view from the summit helped revive my spirits. Enjoyed seeing familiar Lake Chatuge in the far distance.
Pretty sunset colors at the Standing Indian Shelter before the rain and wind began. I was glad to be under roof though the wind blew the rain into the shelter anyway. It was a 3-dog night, with Pax, Arlo and Smoky sharing space with Ole Iron Eye, Puddleduck, Owl and Trail Dawgz and me. It was cold and the rain continued all day, so we hunkered down except Ole Iron Eye who hiked on about midday in pouring rain. So, what do you do all day in a shelter? I ate, read, napped, chatted with my shelter mates and contemplated my navel a lot. Well, not actually, it was way too cold to expose much skin and I was wearing all my clothes including my newly purchased down trousers which were a lifesaver.
It was bitterly cold the next morning as we all packed up for the tough 17-mile hike to Dicks Creek Gap and Around the Bend Hostel. I had trouble getting going and was last to leave the shelter. Unfortunately took a spill on an icy root and ripped several holes in my down pants. Tried to keep going but was hemorrhaging feathers like a duck and had to stop at Deep Gap for repairs with Tenacious Tape and duct tape. Walked much of the morning solo which was probably wise because I was cold and in a miserable frame of mind.
At least this sign made me smile. I was a chunky gal last time I hiked this way though continued hiking has taken care of that and I’m now a scrawny old, hmmm lets say seasoned woman. It intrigued me to learn Chunky Gal Trail is a 21-mile trail connecting the Nantahala and Tusquitee Mountains and has some outstanding views. Filed under “trails to be hiked” for future reference!
Finally caught up with Trail Dawgz at Bly Gap and the Georgia border in time for a lunch stop. Also, finally out of the cold rime ice and my mood quickly improved.
Around the Bend Hostel was outstanding! I had enjoyed staying there when it was Top of Georgia Hostel, but new owners, Gordon and Lisa have taken it to a whole new level. Trail Dawgz decided to take advantage of the option to shuttle to Unicoi Gap then slackpack 17 miles back to the hostel. I intended to stay at the Hostel with Pax but had a change of heart at the last minute and tagged along. It was again a very cold start to the day and a bit of a climb out of the gap. Never really warmed up much but did enjoy lunch in the sun on the summit of Tray Mountain.
The unseasonably cold weather was manageable during the day but really getting to both of us particularly at camp during the morning and evening, plus Thanksgiving was fast approaching. We decided to call the hike for now with plans to finish in the spring and possibly tag on some additional hiking. Celebratory meal in town then Lisa shuttled us back to our vehicles at Fontana Dam the next morning. Trail Dawgz decided to head over to the AT section between Watauga Lake and Roan Mountain in Tennessee to day hike and connect some missing dots before heading back to spend Thanksgiving with his family.
What a fantastic hike but one that really tested my tolerance for cold weather. I was comfy at night but struggled with morning and evening camp chores during the cold snap. A few days later the weather became more seasonable, and I think we could have finished if not for Thanksgiving getting in the way. It was a pleasure to hike with Trail Dawgz and I value his friendship immensely and I look forward to hiking together again in the future!
Keep Going!
222 Miles hiked
What a journey – incredible from most of our points of view!
Thank you, Alice! It was a great adventure despite the weather challenges!