Botanizing on the Bartram Trail

I was reminded of the existence of the Bartram Trail after hiking past the terminus at Cheoah Bald on the AT last fall. When my dear AT friend, Mudsmeller and I started to plan a spring hike, we took a closer look at the Bartram Trail and decided to give it a go. We were thrilled when my day hiking friend, Spreadsheet decided to join us making for a great group of agreeable hiking companions.

During my horticulture career, I became aware of and interested in naturalist, William Bartram who explored the Southern Appalachian Mountain region during the 1770’s. He documented the native plants and animals he observed on his travels, later writing about his finds in what is now referred to as Bartram’s Travels. My love of plants predates my love of long-distance hiking but is equally important to me. This hike sounded perfect for covering all my interests. As I prepared to hike The Bartram Trail with my 2 friends, it was fun to learn additional interesting facts about the man, whose path we would loosely follow on the 110-mile trail through NE Georgia and western North Carolina. According to a flyer distributed by the Blue Ridge Bartram Trail Conservancy, Bartram “was a Quaker, abolitionist, and fierce defender of Native American customs and beliefs – all unpopular ideas among many Americans at the time.” Very interesting man! Time to dust off the pack and download the perfect bedtime read to the kindle app. on my phone. Hmm….Bartram’s Travels of course!

We spotted a vehicle at the Nantahalla Outdoor Center (NOC) where we intended to conclude the hike and another near Franklin, NC where there is a 10-mile road walk along a busy highway which the guidebook advises to avoid and so we did. We then arranged a shuttle to the start at Russell Bridge at the Chattooga River on the GA/SC border. It was a picture-perfect day to hike the meandering trail along the scenic river.

No time at all before we began to see wildflowers galore! Native Azalea, Dog Hobble, Green and Gold, Pink Trillium, Creeping Phlox and Fringed Polygala!

Another highlight of the day was a short side trail down to Dicks Creek Falls where we watched a couple of dudes SUP down the Chattooga. Mudsmeller misplaced one of her trekking poles here and despite frantic searching it was not found though she did pick up a great hiking stick that someone had left at a wet stream crossing.

Really appreciated the huge, engraved rocks that marked different way points on the GA section and the great informational signs also. These were not as prevalent in NC.

Outstanding display of Crested Iris, perhaps the best I’ve ever seen in the wild! Trying to create this look in my wildflower garden at home but a ways to go yet.

More waterfalls and a great sunset view from our 2nd campsite at Courthouse Gap. We met Roxanne and her husband and 2 dogs out on an evening stroll and they offered their phone number in case we needed anything at all, plus hauled off our trash, earning their Trail Angel wings for sure!!!

Day 3 involved more climbing toward Rabun Bald and some great views. A little disconcerting to notice smoke in the distance as well as many aircraft overhead obviously dealing with suppression. All seemed to be under control by the time we reached Rabun Bald.

Day 4 found us finally crossing into NC and we stopped for lunch at the trailhead at Hwy 106. Mudsmeller arrived shortly behind us and announced she had made the difficult decision to get off trail. Over the last year and a half, she had 2 knees and a hip replaced and despite those parts all now working well, she had lost much of her stamina during the recovery process. As a Minnesota flatlander, she had been struggling with the ascents and with catching her breath. We waited until she had lined up a shuttle and with heavy hearts and a few tears shed, continued on without our sweet hiking partner but with plans to meet up when we got to Franklin the following day.

Despite being sad at Mudsmeller’s unfortunate departure the trail continued to surprise and delight.

And more wildflowers including Bluets and Red Trillium plus one of my favorite native trees, Amelanchier or Serviceberry became a common sight.

Our campsite for the evening was quite luxurious by backcountry standards with running water, a picnic table and firepit plus a lantern hook in case we had lugged such a lamp along in out packs. We hadn’t but it was useful for gravity water filtering!

The hike into Franklin continued to be wonderful and with a few surprises. Oh, and more wildflowers!

Always important to check out the magnificent view but also look down for close up beauty.

Surprise of the day was an old school bus right along the trail with rough terrain on all sides that made one wonder how it got there. Spreadsheet researched the puzzle later on and evidently private property adjacent to the trail was once an orchard and the bus placed there to shelter workers. Still not clear how it got there.

More weird sights on our descent down to Franklin….

We met Mudsmeller at the trailhead and decided to zero in Franklin because of forecast rain as did many others in the AT thru-hiker bubble. Franklin is a fun small town and we had wonderful meals, especially at Gracious Plate and Caffè Rel. Also, good beer and a yummy food truck at the Lazy Hiker Brewery. Mudsmeller took us to the Wallace Branch trailhead to resume hiking, then took our surplus gear to my vehicle at NOC before heading home. So enjoyed seeing her again and sad to see her go but am positive that we will hike together again in the future!

Phew, the hike up to Wayah Bald was quite the pull! We climbed 3800′ over 12 miles, eventually camping at Winesong Creek on the AT. It was frustrating to keep seeing the tower but then having to wind around private property to reach our destination.

Trail Magic was taking place at the Wayah Bald parking lot and Spreadsheet had never experienced the joy and wonder of this sort of magic, so we wandered over for a cold drink and a cookie. Fun chatting with the trail angels and thru hikers. The cold coke was the delicious elixir that it always is for me on trail, though I never touch the stuff elsewhere.

We built a fire at our campsite as we had done the last few evenings and enjoyed the company of a neighboring hammocker, a friendly young woman hiking the AT. It rained during the night but thankfully stopped at sunrise, so we were able to pack up dry, though tents were wet and a little condensation on my quilt.

Another day of interesting plant sightings, beautiful views around Nantahala Lake and a cute little orange salamander! We arrived at Appletree Group Camp early and Spreadsheet chatted with a guy doing maintenance, who said that since they currently had no reservations, we were welcome to camp there. Too nice a spot to pass up so we took advantage of the offer. We enjoyed flush toilets, a fire ring, covered picnic tables in a lovely park like setting! We were able to dry out and enjoyed another evening around the firepit. I loved cowboy camping under the shelter.

We hiked out of the Group Camp and it was mostly downhill into the Nantahala Gorge but then a brutal ascent up the other side of the gorge after crossing Hwy 74 and following a bike path for a short distance. Ended up being our longest day yet at 14.3 miles.

Our lunch spot today was right on the trail but in a lovely cove with the most spectacular wildflowers so far! It occurred to me that I have spent a lifetime growing plants and helping people create gardens or working in public gardens, yet some of the most beautiful gardens I have ever seen are created by Mother Nature with no help from us humans at all.

Not many animals sighted on this hike, but we did observe this garter snake crossing our path on our final days. Made me think of Mudsmeller and her respect and affection for all things reptilian. She gives them names, working her way through the alphabet.

We followed Ledbetter Creek with its many falls and chutes up to Cheoah Bald and the terminus of the Bartram Trail. Spreadsheet took a spill on a slippery rock on one of many crossings. Fortunately, no harm done except wet britches which dried fairly quickly.

We lingered at the bald, savoring the view and our completion of the trail. Chatted briefly with Tropical Dr. Seuss who is attempting to become the first AT thru-hiker with cystic fibrosis. We wished him well then continued 8 miles on the AT to NOC and my vehicle. Conga line of thru’s coming up out of NOC, some who we had met in Franklin and others at the trail magic. Very inspirational to meet an 81-year-old woman finishing the last section of her multi-year AT hike. She told us none of her friends want or are able to hike with her anymore, so she just goes solo.

Mudsmeller had left us a treat and lovely message in my vehicle!

The Bartram Trail has not been discovered by the masses yet and I found it amazing that we did not see any other backpackers except for when we shared tread with the AT and just a handful of day hikers near trailheads. The weather was great and our timing for wildflower viewing was perfect! As for reading Bartram’s Travels I didn’t get very far because I was always exhausted at days end but will resume on my next hike coming up in the very near future. The Bartram Trail was a fantastic hike and I so appreciate Mudsmeller and Spreadsheet for their excellent company!