My life has been a tad topsy-turvy since exiting the PCT last year and after reflecting on my epic hike on the Camino de Costa Rica last February, another tropical winter hike really appealed and could possibly provide the reset I needed.
My friend Cheow had read about the Camino del Mayab in a National Geographic article and presented the idea to our hiking friends. The camino is a 68-mile-long path west of Cancun on the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico. Cheow, Kristen, and I signed up for a late January hike with guiding company, Ecoguerreros Yucatan based out of Mérida, which by the way is considered one of Mexico’s safest cities.
Getting to Asheville to begin our multi-segmented journey to Mérida turned into quite the adventure in itself. Unfortunately, a severe winter storm hammered our area with a thick layer of ice in the days prior to our departure. At my home we lost power early on and it was out for over a week. The snap, crackle and pop of tree limbs and falling trees was incredibly loud and sad to witness. Mr Nemophilist, a neighbor and I spent all day cutting and clearing a path through multiple downed trees to allow my passage on our mile long driveway to the main road. Thankfully I had decided to stay in a motel near the airport the night prior to our departure. Delta offered us the opportunity to rebook our flights since so many cancellations were affecting air travel all along the East coast. Kristen and I took them up on the offer and rebooked to a flight later in the day – not without its problems as my boarding pass disappeared from my app. and I spent hours on the phone getting it sorted out. Cheow stuck with our original early flight, spent several hours on the runway in Asheville, missed her connection, and ended up arriving a couple of hours after we did. We flew on Aeromexico from Mexico City to Mérida and note to anyone flying this route, Aeromexico offers free glasses of Tequila after 11am to passengers that request it! Delicious and helped ease a stressful day and phew, despite everything we made it to Mexico!
We planned to sightsee in Mérida for a couple of days before starting the hike, and Cheow had found a lovely Airbnb apartment in the center of town to use as our base. Kristen booked a bike tour that turned out to be a great way to see the town. Our guide, Ivan, was excellent at detailing the rich history of the area and showing us the sights. I really enjoyed the stop at a small cafe for a refreshing fruit juice containing Chaya, a native spinach-like plant that we would taste in many forms over the following week. After the bike ride we walked to Mérida’s main historical square and toured Casa Montejo, dating back to 1549 and now housing a free museum. Being a museum buff, I found the house and displays of the extravagant lifestyle of the Spanish conquistadors very interesting. Many fascinating sights as we wandered around Mérida plus enjoyed delicious food and beverages! We loved the gentleman that pedaled his bike past our apartment every evening selling delicious pastries!!!
The following day we Ubered to the nearby Mayan ruins of Dzibilchaltun. The correct pronunciation alluded us despite being told multiple times by our guide. Hiring the guide was definitely worthwhile – we learned so much about what was once a major Mayan city, evidently the size of current day Mérida and occupied from 600BC until arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century. The highlight of the visit was viewing the Temple of the Seven Dolls and learning that it was used to celebrate the summer solstice, when the sun shines directly through the center opening at sunrise. The temple, as with many Mayan structures was built over during colonization and rediscovered during archaeological excavations and is also when the namesake seven Mayan dolls were discovered, though not currently on display. The welcome center was definitely still a work in progress and unfortunately the Cenote was not available for swimming due to pollution. Cenotes are amazing limestone sinkholes containing fresh water and can be open air or within caverns and found throughout the Yucatan peninsula. We would have plenty of opportunities to swim in several during the hike.
We continued on to the port city of Progreso on the Caribbean Sea and discovered a cruise ship docked so of course tons of people milling about. We walked along the touristy boardwalk and then back along the beach. We had hoped to visit the Meteorite Museum highlighting the site where an asteroid was believed to have struck 66 million years ago causing the extinction of the dinosaurs. We got sidetracked looking for the “best” local watering hole and though never found did find another fun spot to sample Margaritas. Back in Mérida we enjoyed dinner at the bar of the Museo de la Gastronomía Yucateca, both a restaurant and museum highlighting traditional Mayan foods. Our charming bartender/server was delightful!
Finally, time for the early meetup with our fellow hikers and guides! I was surprised by how many of us there were! We were initially told we would be a group of 12 but 24 of us were loaded on 2 buses headed to the start. The joke was that it was like herding cats for the guides to get us organized and it became a theme throughout the next five days. It was an interesting group of worldwide adventurers including from the UK, Australia, Canada, US, and Mexico. We had several guides and drivers, some with us briefly, but our bilingual biologist leader, Misael was with us consistently as were several others.
The first day felt a little confusing to me. We hiked and jumped in the bus several times, visiting 2 Haciendas and ending the day at our destination of Peba for overnight camping and a swim in a Cenote. I never felt like I quite knew where we were or going next, difficult for someone like me who is used to more research and detailed self-planning for my solo hiking expeditions. Despite my initial confusion I loved the immersion into the history and culture of the area. We learned about Henequen production that fueled the Hacienda system. Henequen is a tough native agave plant grown to produce sisal fiber used for rope, baskets and such. Sadly, the Maya were exploited through forced labor for this once-booming industry that fattened the pockets of European settlers. A company store policy was in effect, where each Hacienda had its own currency and kept workers in perpetual debt and unable to leave. I particularly enjoyed our stop at a small library where we learned how the Maya grew vegetables on raised wooden platforms and about a traditional ball game in which players use their hips to pass the ball without using their hands. A couple of brave souls in our group gave it a try – it definitely required skill and a younger body than mine.
So glad I had the foresight to pack my inflatable mattress in my luggage! Everyone complained about sleeping on the hard ground in the tents, but I was comfortable. We did wake up to light rain and cooler morning temps though soon stopped and warmed up. More hiking and super interesting visit to Hacienda Yaxcopoil where we had an informative tour of the property. Saw a pretty young women having photos taken for her Quinceañera celebration, a traditional Mexican celebration for a young woman turning 15 years old. We visited 2 beautiful Cenotes, and I enjoyed a swim in both. Evidently the water remains the same temperature year-round. Interesting little fish nibbled the toes, plus swifts and bats flew about in the cave-like Cenote.
Cheow, Kristen and I shared a beautiful traditional thatched cabin at our accommodations in San Antonia Mulix. The door was a bit tricky, and I was admonished to not destroy it in my quest to gain entrance.
Despite my initial reservation about joining the optional night hike, so happy I decided to participate. The full moon was beautiful, the smaller group made it tranquil, and I loved the ceremony at a gigantic Ceiba tree led by Misael. The Ceiba tree is sacred in Mayan culture, the roots symbolizing the connection to the underworld, the trunk earthly life and the branches reach for the heavens. My trail name is Nemophilist, so I was thrilled to wrap my arms around this special tree and feel its power! Fantastic late dinner of delicious fish for a small upcharge at the conclusion of the hike.
Our beds came with only a sheet, and we had to request additional blankets, though I still wore my puffy jacket all night to keep warm. We woke up to temperatures in the 40’s and our guides were really suffering as this was unusually cold for them. Nothing like a morning hike to help warm up and the sun quickly helped things along. Good breakfast stop followed by more hiking. On the agenda was a cenote swim in a cool cave at Hacienda Yunku, though I didn’t feel the urge to get in and enjoyed soaking my feet in the sunny resort pool! Seemed like quite a drive to the bustling town of Ticul which would serve as our base for the next two nights. Our hotel was quite comfortable and finally a hot shower! Everyone was disappointed to learn no alcohol sales at the local mercado after 5 on Sundays.
Yet again, another cool night and despite being inside I was cold and didn’t sleep well. I think we drove to near where we had finished the previous day and then hiked to breakfast in Mucuyché followed by a visit to the most beautiful Cenote of the trip: Yaal Utzil. This was our adorable guide, Valentine’s favorite and quickly became everyone else’s too. I regret not taking the plunge but felt out of sorts from a lack of sleep. I did enjoy watching everyone from the sidelines, particularly those that that bravely jumped from a raised platform including our courageous Kristen.
Xcanchacan was a bustling village, and the educational activities were wonderful. We learned how Henequen is processed and about the revitalized ancient Mayan art of basketmaking, which provides income and sustainability for the villagers particularly women. We then visited a homestead where a woman kept native Melipona bees for honey production. These social stingless bees have been cultivated by the Maya for thousands of years. The medicinal honey was traditionally used as currency, in religious ceremonies and to treat ailments. We enjoyed a great lunch and were serenaded with a musical performance by two young lads. More hiking took us to Uayalceh and a swim in a cave covered cenote. We stopped for beer purchases on the ride back to Ticul and Paul, evidently a wine aficionado – went further afield in search of a few bottles to share and celebrate the groups last evening together. He did find some nice local vintages to raise a glass with.
I requested a blanket from the front desk and enjoyed much better sleep. The best breakfast of the whole of the trip was enjoyed at the home of our guide, Miguel. His lovely mother, grandmother and aunties put on a delicious spread and were so hospitable! The cutest neighborhood pup came for a visit and introductions were made!
After hiking to Tecoh, we enjoyed a special afternoon at a lovely resort. Everyone was in good spirits, and it was fun to watch Misael relax and cut a rug. We had a powerful closing ceremony with a local Shaman in the enclosed cenote. We then all received a t-shirt and completion certificate.
Time to head back to Merida and sadly bid farewell to our new friends! Cheow, Kristen, and I caught up with my daughter and her partner for dinner and who had just arrived to spend 3 weeks touring the Yucatán. Sigh – early morning departure to begin the journey home!
What a great trip! Looking back, I really loved being immersed in the culture and history of the Yucatán and the Mayan people. The trail itself wasn’t especially scenic, but the daily destinations were spectacular. It did make me sad to see how much trash was scattered along the way, and being in such a large group was a bit tough for the more reclusive side of me. Still, I’m so grateful for my fun travel partners, Kristen and Cheow, the lively crew of international travelers, and especially our wonderful guides, their families and the local people they introduced us to!
And finally – quirky encounters!
I would rather own little and see the world, than own the world and see little of it!
Another awesome write up! A great reminder of a wonderful time. Thank you!