Nemophilist here! Despite feeling more happy, content and comfortable on trail than anywhere else, for a myriad of reasons, that was not the case on the Cohos Trail. The weather conditions, difficulty of the trail, logistics and time constraints plus not actually completing the trail played a part in my misery, and I couldn’t find the words to write up a blog post. Thankfully my hiking partner, Trail Dawgz volunteered for the task and his take on our Cohos adventure follows!
As a guest writer for this blog: the term “we” as used below means Nemophilist, myself (Trail Dawgz) and Pax (my 6-yr old Goldendoodle).
Before describing this trip, I have to say that in my defense: “Yes” I proposed this trip but “No” I don’t control the weather. I will also say that I am a New Englander from Vermont, and again (in my defense), I will say that “if you don’t like the weather just wait a minute”. Of course, for Nemophilist, waiting a minute became waiting numerous days and almost a week! Finally neither of us have ever hiked the COHOS (kuh·howz) and although I have done many sections in the more actively used White Mountain region, the COHOS trail choice of very northern NH was a mutual decision based on all the existing knowledge we had. Perhaps one final statement in my defense: the guidebook for the COHOS trail to date has only been written south to north and we chose to hike it north to south because the northern section is easier and flatter and in my opinion it would give us both time to break into the trail and be ready for the rougher sections of the trail slowly. I will refer to this recent video of the trail (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=B8ylrlAfYjI) as an example of why hiking south to north can be trouble. I would say that trying to read both trail description and mileage in reverse in rainy weather is not fun or easy!
Day #1 August 19 (7.0)
At a coordinated meeting I met up with Nemophilist at the COHOS south trail head parking lot on Rte. 302 in Crawford Notch. Leaving her beautiful new blue Bronco there, we drove north leaving food drops at 3 locations along the way: Israel River Campground in Jefferson, Mountain Valley Campground in Stark and Rudy’s Cabins & Campground in Pittsburg. The goal: to limit our food trail weight and therefore totally enjoy the ~150-mile trail through the “great north woods” of New England while accomplishing an average reasonable trail mileage (15) each day.
We made it to Pittsburg and the Canadian boundary line at about 3 pm and began the hike. Since we knew we would be back to get the car we skipped the last 1-mile hike to 4th Connecticut Lake and headed south in the rain and clouds to Deer Mt Campground. We made the hike around 3rd Connecticut Lake to the campground and arrived in the rain. Not an auspicious start but nevertheless a good start! We proceeded to set up camp, first looking at the tent platform and then realizing it was much more sheltered in the woods. In an adventuresome spirit we looked to see if there were any other drier camping locations, I located the Cornpopper Cabin and gained entrance but someone had already rented it and we chose not to pursue a request to sleep under their dry screened porch. As a result, we slept in the woods, Nemophilist in her dry tent and I in my dry hammock, with Pax underneath the tarp.
Day #2 August 20 (10.0)
We arose to the rain, packed up our gear after breakfast, took refuge in the Ranger’s cabin porch (apparently due to financial reasons the ranger only worked several days a week during the summer season!) and retrieved water from an excellent spring just to the east of the cabin. The trail south led along an old snowmobile trail/logging road for several miles, then crossed Rte. 3 leading through some beautiful damp woods and then the old clear cuts covered with blooming bunch berries which was late. They were blooming due to the open sunshine from the clear cut rather than the shade normally expected under leaf cover in August. These woods are now part of the large 150,000 new Connecticut Lakes Headwaters Working Forest purchased from International Paper in 2003. This whole area of the upper Connecticut River watershed was once many ponds and wild lands but during the Depression era and following some large Connecticut River floods (1936), the area was found to be suitable as a flood water storage area including Lake Francis, First Connecticut, 2nd and 3rd Connecticut Lakes. Lake Francis is new (1940), but all the other lakes were increased in size with floodgate outlet structures. The trail signage in this area is mysterious and this probably had something to do with its proximity to the border crossing. Going south the trail was blazed well and very well maintained. That said there were numerous muddy areas due to the excessively wet summer to date and the fact that earlier in the year there had been a severe rainstorm which had removed several bridges and caused some severe erosion. This is a very beautiful area, and I have been here in dry weather when the moose and Loons were abundant. Although we saw few Loons we heard numerous ones throughout this region, unfortunately no moose were seen although there were a lot of signs. In the late afternoon we reached the 2nd Connecticut Lake dam and then stumbled into Tillotson Lean-to. Consensus was the trail was flat but difficult and that we should move on to Ramblewood Campground and restart the trip there (about 5 miles to the south); if we did that, we could get warm, dry and recharged. The temperature was cool for late August, around 50 and (little did we would know) would get progressively cooler for the next 4-5 days. We called Ramblewood and they very courteously sent a driver to pick us up and drive me to the border to retrieve my car and drive to the campground for the night. Nemophilist seeing the first break in a complete thru hike convulsed with doubt about this decision and swore never to hike with Trail Dawgz again!
Day #3 August 21 (15.0 + 3.0 road walk)
At Ramblewood we were able to dry out our gear and clothes, do our laundry, buy some beer and sit in a warm office. Recovery was imminent or at least possible! The Ramblewood owners were very hospitable and allowed us to dry my tarp in their garage and leave my car at the campground for a week. The low temperature that morning was an unseasonable 47 F. We left and climbed up the road to the COHOS and continued south over Covell Mt. before dropping down to Rte. 3 and Youngs Store. Youngs store was great with good food and gear. I searched the aisles but could not find a good warm cap, so they searched in their winter supplies in the basement, and I found a great warm cap with reindeer and “New Hampshire” written on the side. Being a Vermonter I folded the words under, hiding New Hampshire, and for extra warmth as a head band. This is a somewhat dangerous area for liberal Vermonters and South Carolinians to recreate given the large Trump signs posted everywhere and the fact that the local gun and ATV shop is called “MOMS”!
After a great breakfast of bagels and coffee at Youngs we headed south. Crossing the Connecticut River for the first time, we circled the west side of Lake Francis on a beautiful, wooded trail and arrived at Cedar Stream Rd on the south side of the lake. The new guidebook I possessed said head west on the road to Rudy’s Cabins at Clarksville Pond; however the map I had purchased said go due south to Coleman State Park via a new trail relocation. Off to Rudy’s we headed given our food drop was at Rudy’s. About 3 miles down Cedar Stream Rd (on the old COHOS) we decided to call Rudy’s and see if they would pick us up. The owner Kathleen knew exactly where we were and immediately took off to get us. Kathleen let us tent under the picnic shelter and we survived a third torrential day of rain and cold weather!
Day #4 August 22 (0)
With a 4th day of consecutive rain forecast we opted to spend the morning with Kathleen at Rudy’s Cabin and take the ride she offered to Coleman State Park where we had reserved the Trout Cabin. This gave us time for showers, repacking and a zero day to recuperate. Kathleen filled us with interesting stories about living in Pittsburg for 50 years, stories of her family, hunting and fishing, and the wildlife. She dropped us off at the park midday and we celebrated Nemophilist’s birthday with a great dinner and a good brew in a heated cabin. We now had a 13-mile deficit along with the previous 5 mile one between Tillotson and Ramblewood. Needless to say, back on track and ready to go! A low temperature that night of 49 F.
Day #5 August 23 (10.3)
We started out early ready to tackle the trail after a large breakfast and a full recovery. However finding the route via the late summer growth on ATV/snowmobile trails was somewhat difficult and wet. At this point southbound we had encountered about 10 people mostly north of Lake Francis. Today we did not encounter one hiker. However, we had no rain in the forecast and the clearing clouds allowed some great views especially toward the end of the day. We decided to camp at the picnic area as there were no signs prohibiting it. The night was warm and clear with a moon. The campsite was very enjoyable with no ghosts even though the first settlers were buried nearby!
Day 6 August 24 (13.7)
We woke to a beautiful day with clear skies. Not typically unusual for August…
The hike lead up to the top of Dixville gap and Table Rock. The trail was well maintained and in great shape. The views were great. Beyond Table Rock the trail deteriorated substantially becoming very muddy and grown over. The connector trail to the old Balsam Ski Area did not appear to get much use. The view from the top of the ski area was good and the warming hut on top would have been a possible shelter if we had known about it and if it were poor weather. Leaving the summit the trail meanders around Dix peak climbing and descending before hitting the wind tower service road which it follows for several miles. There were good views to the south and west along the road. Leaving the road, it was a short but steep climb to Baldhead Shelter. For me the hike from Baldhead 5 miles to Cathedral Meadow was endless but it was all beautiful woods. Gadwah Notch was interesting and then there is a long walk down the Nash Stream logging road to the meadows. Great views from the meadows of Sugarloaf Mt along the upper CT river. Trail Dawgz and Pax cowboy camped, Nemophilist tented.
A loud noise was heard at dusk, possibly a coyote or an Owl, in the woods nearby but we made no further investigation.
Day 7 August 25 (14.2)
Again dry weather in the morning and Nemophilist opted for the long and steady hike to Old Hermit Shelter while Trail Dawgz and Pax walked the Nash Stream Rd. I had heard rumors of the Nash Stream area for a long time and how the USFS had recently purchased it. The road walk was quiet with one camp & lawnmower. I waited for Nemophilist at the Nash Stream bridge and was able to dry out gear and take a bath in the river. Butterflies covered the area. We met, had lunch, and proceeded up the Bog Brook falls and around the Percy Peaks. There is an interesting memorial pool for dogs half way up North Percy called Bonnie’s Pool. Pax naturally got in and got completely muddy. We continued on to the Percy Pk tenting area and then up North Percy. I got a few minutes ahead after reaching the Old Summer Club Trail and Nemophilist got disoriented and mistakenly hiked the steep scramble to the summit of North Percy. Congratulations to her! Given the pack weight I was interested in going down not up. Luckily the Garmin came in handy, and she texted me where she was, and I waited on the downhill. We could hear a thunderstorm approaching and tried to move rapidly down to Devils Rest Lean to. We made it with about a minute to spare! The shelter is unique with a bowed wood entrance frame. We should have continued on to the Meadow Valley campground, but it had been a long day, and we did not want to tent.
Day 8 August 25 (13.2)
Pouring rain all night but it was clear in the morning. We packed up and headed down to Christine Lake and then on to Mountain Valley CG to get our food drop. The owner was very hospitable, and we got to shower, pack up and resupply with water. We also were able to leave gear behind to be picked up at the end of the trip. Nemophilist had a cup of hot tea with the owner’s mother, and she offered to drive us to the trail head across the river on Rte 110. We went on to South Pond Recreation Area on a snowmobile trail where we met two folks guarding the gate and who gave us a hot dog. We packed down to the beach for lunch. I swam again as it was a beautiful day. On we went to Rogers Ledge as rain set in one more time and then a few miles further up to the Unknown Pond tent site. The sunset was beautiful from the Pond although I did not see it as I went back up the hill to see the view east towards Gorham. A pair of local military boys and their son were camped nearby. Many chipmunks and several rabbits in the area but nothing else. We slept; quickly and quietly.
Day 9 August 26 (2.5)
The sunshine was out in full and we packed up and skedaddled from Unknown Pond. The climb up to the Horn and then the Bulge was steep but we arrived at Cabot Cabin before lunch. When Nemophilist was hiking the AT south I picked her up near Gorham and she stayed with us at the Billings Cabin owned by Dartmouth in Randolph. The college has since closed the cabin and is looking for a wealthy benefactor to endow a new cabin or a rebuild of the old. On her break from the AT we offered her the chance to day hike with us on the Mt. Cabot loop but for some odd reason, she refused! Cabot Cabin was enticing as it offered dry housing and rain was again in the forecast; we decided to call it a day and spend the night. Perhaps not surprisingly the two military dads and their son showed up that night! We got to know them and learned that that they were local to Randolph and recently discharged. Ironically one knew the location of Billings Cabin and had rescued many stranded guests there with his tow truck! A quiet peaceful night at the cabin passed although the hike to get water is long and down a 1/2 mile!
Day 10 August 27 (13.9)
A long and brutal day awaited us…. We said goodbye to our military friends at the cabin, met a few day hikers and headed south into the clouds. The whole Kilkenny Ridge was socked in and it looked like a very wet cool day ahead. The trail traversed the ridge descending to Bunnell Notch and then up and over Terrace Mt (two summits) and then three summits of Weeks Mt! Brutal, although the rain held off through most of it and we were comforted by the lack of lightning and thunderstorms! The sun decided to break out near the summit of Cabot and the last part of the day was dry and warm. We stumbled down the trail and met our driver and received a ride to the local store and then on to Nemophilist’s car. We had had enough with 6 out of the 8 days of rain,mud and overgrown trail. Ironically the next two nights would be even colder with a low of 42. That was unfortunate, as normally at the end of the summer, the weather is dry, sunny and one of the best times to hike in the White Mountains.
Day 11 August 28
Our trip concluded in Jefferson and we opted to use the breaking good weather to head for the high peaks of the Whites instead (described elsewhere). I have already done some of the final section of the trail including the Davis Path section which made it easier for me to extract myself from the COHOS. That said I do intend to go back and complete it. Our trip totals to date, using the most recent COHOS map mileage estimates, were that the total mileage of the actual trail is 147 miles. Nemophilist completed 83.8 and I had completed this plus a previous trip 92.2; we have about 50-60 miles to finish.
However, before moving on to the White Mountains we had to return to the Connecticut Lakes region and pick up a food drop at Mountain View campground one last time. Ironically, it was a gorgeous day! We stopped at Youngs Store, Ramblewood, 3rd Connecticut Lake and, did the .4 mile hike into 4th Connecticut Lake. The view of Quebec and 4th lake was very rural and quiet. It is always amazing to me how they cut and maintain that international boundary line thru the forest. That is a lot of work! We spent time on the beach at 3rd Connecticut Lake and enjoyed watching several people fishing from the shore, we lay in the sun and soaked up the heat.
Thank you Trail Dawgz! In hindsight and with the passage of time I realize it wasn’t so bad after all, in fact quite beautiful and amazing!