Amazing Arizona!

I was extremely fortunate to have my daughter, Klaire and her partner, Patrick invite me to join them for a week on their winter travels. Klaire and Patrick manage his parents RV park, https://www.smokybearcampground.com/ in Gatlinburg TN. They work extremely hard during the season but then can travel during the winter months when the campground is closed. Past adventures include explorations of Australia, New Zealand, Iceland and Italy but over the last few winters they have stayed on this continent and traveled throughout the southwest in an RV. So, after a grueling day of travel, I found myself in Phoenix, Arizona at 1 in the morning . I was using my airline miles and consequently took a grand airport tour to get here! They picked me up curbside and we traveled a few miles away to boondock in a Bass Pro Shop parking lot. Evidently many businesses allow RV’ers to camp out in their parking lots free of charge.

Day 1

After morning espresso, Klaire took the wheel and we began our journey north from  Phoenix toward Sedona. The scenery was breathtaking and so different from anywhere else I’ve ever been! We stopped at the visitor center of the Coconino National Forest which was manned by very friendly and helpful volunteers since the government was still in shutdown mode. We were advised of some not to miss hiking trails and of a dispersed camping spot since all the campgrounds were closed. Our hike today was a 5.5-mile loop around Courthouse Butte then a spectacular climb up to Bell Rock. The trail was hard red clay. easy to negotiate and the views outstanding! I loved seeing all the native flora but was able to identify very few plants! We arrived back at the trailhead just as it was going dark and headed back to the village of Oak Creek. Klaire and Patrick are foodies and had picked out a healthy Moroccan restaurant called A Taste of Marrakech for dinner. I was pretty lost on the menu but enjoyed their style of eating out which was to order several appetizers and main courses and share. It was delicious! We drove several miles down a gravel road to the dispersed camping area and settled in for the night.

Day 2

We hadn’t been able to see much of where we were when we arrived last night, but the sunrise revealed we were surrounded by jaw dropping views of the high desert and the surrounding mountains. The volunteer yesterday had suggested we stop at the Sedona Airport Vortex parking lot for some great views so that was our first stop. Sedona has a reputation as a new age, spiritual sort of place so we made the short climb up to the Airport Vortex. Klaire later said she felt some vibration but alas Patrick and I didn’t. I guess I was so awestruck by the view that I wasn’t paying attention to receiving any of that energy.

We intended to hike up to Cathedral Rock today but when we arrived at the trailhead there wasn’t suitable parking for a 24-foot RV, so we headed back into Sedona. Klaire wanted to stop at a New Age shop and we mulled around there for an hour or so. I was drawn to purchase a piece of yellow obsidian which promised to boost my confidence, encourage me to pursue my true path and promised calming vibes. I’ll take all of that, thank you! The sales clerk was obviously enjoying his day with the help of some chemical enhancement and presented me with a Perception Love Dollar. It was loaded with information about love, peace and awareness which Klaire said he must have thought I needed! Ha! He also gave us the lowdown on another trailhead that was an even better hike up to Cathedral Rock and so off we went. The 4.1-mile hike up to Cathedral Rock was wonderful. It followed a river before the rock scramble up to the top. It was really steep about midway up and I considered stopping there but after some encouragement, I conquered my fears and am so glad I did. We encountered a guy coming down and beating on a drum. It sure added to the energy and ambience of this beautiful place.

What an amazing view yet again! There was a narrow ledge that led out to an overhang that was incredible! As we hiked back, we were treated to an amazing sunset! We headed toward Flagstaff and another delicious dinner at the best Indian restaurant in town according to Yelp. Our campsite tonight was in an RV park with full hookups!

Day 3

On the agenda today was Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument and fortunately the government furlough was finally over. We started to see snow on the higher peaks particularly Humphreys Peak, Arizona’s tallest mountain. Patrick wanted to hike up it, but we determined we probably weren’t properly equipped for such an endeavor and headed on into the park. We took a fairly short 3.3-mile hike through the lava fields of the Sunset Crater Volcano then headed up to walk the rim of Lenox Crater. The contrast between the snow on the ground and the black lava rock was quite striking and the view over to Humphreys Peak amazing.

A visit to the Grand Canyon was definitely on my bucket list and I knew Klaire and Patrick had visited last year so didn’t expect them to want to return, but they were eager to go again and so off we went. The route took us up over 8000 feet and we began to see lots of snow and people enjoying sledding, snow shoeing, and cross-country skiing. Serendipitously, we arrived at the Grand Canyon just at sunset. Seeing the Grand Canyon sunset was a pinnacle moment for me! I was awestruck! This is definitely one of the most beautiful places on earth! Tonight, I did feel the vortex energy of this astonishingly gorgeous spot!

Day 4

We parked in Camper Village last night though had to dump the water tanks since the temps got into the teens. It was plenty cozy in the RV though, with the provided electric hookup keeping the heat going. The day quickly warmed up as the sun came up, though there were big piles of snow every where and we were advised at the visitor center that we would need microspikes to hike down into the Canyon since the trail had a thick layer of ice. We purchased microspikes, though only Patrick was able to get the last pair of the better Kahtoolas. Mine were a tad too small but worked ok. I plan on trying to sell them on a Facebook gear site when I get home. It was cool to see a herd of elk wandering around the visitor center though they were devouring all the vegetation.

We took the bus over to the Bright Angel Trailhead and began our descent into the canyon! Words cannot describe the awesomeness of this place! There was ice on the trail until we got to the 1.5-mile rest area but it was easy to negotiate with our spikes. We had planned on just going to the 3-mile rest area and turning around but felt we could go on. Patrick and I had set our sights on going the full 6 miles to Plateau Point though Klaire wasn’t sure. When we got to Indian Garden it was only another mile and half so we knew we could do it. It was incredible to walk from piles of snow and ice into the desert and go from wearing our puffy jackets to short sleeves. The last 1.5 miles on the Tonto Trail were flat and the terrain covered with purple cactus. The view from Plateau Point into the inner canyon and down to the Colorado River was just fantastic. We were treated to 2 California Condor flybys! These huge birds were considered almost extinct back in the 80’s and the remaining population captured, bred in captivity, then many released in Northern Arizona. Evidently, they are making a comeback! What a special treat to witness them flying over the canyon! We enjoyed a back-country charcuterie board with various Epic bars, cheese, chips, trail mix and oranges for lunch! I don’t think you’d find a finer view for lunch! The ascent back up to the rim was fairly easy and I do think we could have made it up and down to the Colorado River if we’d had an earlier start. Next time! We finished our hike in the dark for a total of 12.4 miles. I highly recommend hiking the canyon in January. There were no crowds and the weather perfect!  What an epic day!

Day 5

After yesterdays hike, Patrick drove us back to Sedona and we boondocked at the Sedona Airport Vortex parking lot. Klaire had wanted to hike to Devils Bridge so that was on the agenda today. We parked on a paved road and had to hike down a rough jeep road to get to the trailhead. It was fun to watch the jeeps and mountain bikers maneuver the bumps and gullies. It was a short easy hike up to the Devils Bridge and we were again treated to amazing views. It was a little intimidating to walk out on the Bridge but after Cathedral Rock and the Grand Canyon we were pro’s. I tried to do an exalted warrior yoga pose out there but got a little vertigo looking up!

 

Our next stop was Montezuma’s Castle National Monument, a well-preserved cliff dwelling. We met 90-year-old  Sam, the docent on duty, and he was charming as well as extremely knowledgeable about the ruins. He told us with happy tears in his eyes about his life as a county supervisor in southern California and his family. His grandson had married a Hopi woman and his great-granddaughter had just been ceremonially initiated into the tribe. Evidently the Hopi are a matriarchal society! I like that!

Klaire wanted to treat me to a hot spring experience so found the El Dorado Hot Spring west of Phoenix and we started driving toward it! As the sun set we were again treated to another beautiful sunset. Again everything fell into place as we approached a rest area coincidentally called Sunset Point and were able to stop and fully appreciate the beauty! The sunsets here in Arizona are the most stunning I have ever seen! There is even amazing color to the east which I’ve never experienced before. As we resumed our journey and I googled the hot spring, I noticed clothing was prohibited in the public tubs. Hmmm! Turns out I didn’t have to get naked as we got a private hot tub at our campsite. It was an interesting hippy place with tons of character. We loved it and stayed in our private tub until 1 in the morning!

Day 6

In daylight El Dorado was even more interesting with peacocks and pot belly pigs roaming the property and a fantastic view from our tub. We hopped back into our tub and enjoyed it until checkout. When Klaire and Patrick went to take care of chores I decided to try going au natural! Yeah, it’s pretty awesome!

As we needed to start heading back toward Phoenix for my flight home, we decided to travel via the Sonoran Desert National Monument an area added to the National Park system by Bill Clinton in 2001. Our first stop was a pull off the interstate with no exit or entry ramp. There were signs everywhere to be aware of illegal aliens and smuggling operations.

We walked for a short distance and then met 3 guys out on their ATV’s. They all were packing pistols on their belts and curiously kept there hands on their guns on the ready to draw. Patrick had found a trail to hike in the desert called the Lava Fields and we asked the guys about it. They told us they didn’t like that area but didn’t elaborate. We headed to the area down a long gravel road called Vekol Rd until we had to stop at a wash and walked to the abandoned Vekol Ranch. It was so interesting to walk around all the outbuildings, abandoned implements and the actual home itself. Walking through the house, I heard a shhh shhh sound in the bathroom that sounded like water running. Patrick came to investigate and determined it was a huge rattlesnake when it sounded its distinctive rattle.

We decided to continue on our hike down the road for another 3 miles. The desert was so beautiful with all different kinds of cactus, especially the impressive saguaro cactus. We saw several antelope jackrabbits with their huge ears. We got back to the RV just at sunset and I got to witness another amazing end to my last day in Arizona.

 

As we headed back to the interstate Klaire and I decided to google the Vekol Ranch to see if there was information about who had lived there. We both looked at each other in disbelief as there was too much information about human trafficking, drug cartel wars, robberies, and many murders including a sheriff’s deputy, a Bureau of Land Management officer and a family of 5 burned in their vehicle in the Vekol Valley. No wonder the 3 guys were a bit jumpy and had been packing guns. It was hard to believe that such a beautiful remote area had such a violent history. Fortunately we didn’t see any other people and the only danger we encountered was a rattle snake but undoubtedly we wouldn’t have ventured in such an area if we had known beforehand and probably should have taken the sign more seriously.

We ate dinner at a highly rated Mexican restaurant in Phoenix called Barrio where the chef had received several James Beard awards for her innovative cooking! It was major delicious!! We all took post dinner naps in the RV until midnight and time for me to check in at the airport. It was a series of brutal red-eye flights to get home but a price I was willing to pay for such a wonderful time!

I am so appreciative of Klaire and Patrick for inviting me to share their adventures! I am proud to see them live their life on their own terms and enjoying the heck out of it too! I definitely would like to return to Arizona! The Arizona Trail is 800 miles long from the Mexican border to Utah and may have to be added to my long-trail bucket list!

Klaire captured this incredible shot of me in the Grand Canyon. I think that ray of sunshine has been shining on me for last several years as I’ve traveled to many different places, had such unique experiences and met such interesting people. I hope it continues to guide me along!