Day 10: Early start with the usual tough climb but again in cool misting rain. We followed the Aya Aqueduct for some miles before entering agricultural land again. We began to see highland coffee growing on the steep slopes. This is evidently higher quality than lowland coffee. We enjoyed a picnic lunch on the soccer field in Muneco and were joined by a cat and assorted dogs, one cute pup hiking with us for the rest of the day. The Camino has a new reroute, but Alejo led us along the original route and so grateful he did when we saw in the distance the steep muddy climb it followed, and we would have missed one of the most incredible sections of the hike. Shortly after leaving the village, we entered the amazing cloud forest and were met by an additional guide, Nelson who led us through his family’s private reserve to Palo Verde. His grandfather had farmed some of the acreage back in the day but decided to let it revert to its natural state and it evolved into being the private reserve it is today. This was a spectacular hike in a such a unique ecosystem and Nelson’s knowledge, love and dedication to this special place was wonderful! Very refreshing to meet young people such as Alejo and Nelson who have such passion for the natural world and the environment! So many amazing plants, trees, and fungi! Our day ended with a fantastic stay at the beautiful home of our guides family. Nelson’s Father, Jorges and his wife were extremely hospitable and welcomed us to their beautiful home. Elevation of 5813 feet. The dinner of trout, salad and vegetables was by far the best we have been served. Phenomenal day! 13.3 miles today.
Day 11: Breakfast was of course delicious! This stay was by far the best of the hike. Today’s hike was short in distance but no surprise, another climb to start. A short cut took us through more incredible cloud forest and then followed gravel roads. Mudsmeller was struggling with the steep climbs combined with the high elevation so decided to take a break and ride in the sag wagon with Jorges. They were unable to drive up a steep muddy section and had to backtrack, then drive many miles through several villages just to meet us 2 miles up the trail. I think she enjoyed her alternative adventure and rejoined the hike much rejuvenated and ready to hike. Passed a cut flower operation whose principal crops were Hydrangea flowers and Eucalyptus. Most interesting plant I saw today was the aptly named, Poorman’s Umbrella or Gunnera insignis. There was some sensory overload with fast-moving cars and trucks when we reached the busy Pan-American Highway, part of a network of roads which I learned could be traveled from Alaska to Argentina. Now that would be some road trip! Our day ended at the highest point on the trail, 7545 feet elevation, which weirdly was at a truck stop. We ate lunch at the adjacent cafeteria and Alejo helped us choose from the wide assortment of unfamiliar choices on the buffet. I enjoyed my lunch but Spreadsheet not so much. We drove to our lodging, Cabinas Cerro Alto making for a short day. The five women shared a spacious cabin and enjoyed a leisurely afternoon of sorting and cleaning our gear. Unfortunately, Spreadsheets duffle got wet in the sag wagon, so she spread out her gear to dry on the front porch while admiring the amazing view. Cocktail hour commenced at 5 in the cozy living room before dinner. It was quite cool at this elevation, and we warmed our hands at the wood stove in the dining room before dinner. Our cabin had a fireplace and small pile of wood, so I was able to get a fire going, helping dry some of our wet stuff. 8.6 miles today.
Day 12: Beautiful sunrise! Observed many interesting birds through the large dining room windows at breakfast. Jorges shuttled us back to the truck stop to start our hike. We walked along roads and through quaint small villages. We were all very sad to say goodbye to dear Jorges at a rest spot in one of the small villages. We eventually left pavement and on to gravel roads. Tremendous views! Started to pass field after field of coffee plants growing on extremely steep slopes. The harvesting is done by hand and must be extremely difficult. The coffee fruits were quite tasty though Alejo said no caffeine in the flesh, it’s all in the bean and mucilage around the bean, referred to as the honey. We reached the end of today’s hike around noon and taxied to Hotel Palenque. Very quaint and comfortable cabins. Mudsmeller, Spreadsheet, Cheow and I decided to walk about mile into the bustling town of San Marcos and enjoyed delicious coffee drinks and pastries. Once back at the hotel Gabby joined us for wine and good conversation on the porch of our cabin. Great day! 9.6 miles today plus walking into town.
Day 13: Breakfast then shuttle back to where we stopped yesterday. As usual started with some steep climbs. Really in coffee country now and interesting how colorful cordyline plants separate different varieties or property lines. Plantains are planted throughout the coffee slopes to shade the coffee plants, control erosion and help retain soil moisture. We stopped at a small local family farm and got a lesson on the roasting process and sampled the 3 different roasts they produced. I sampled one of the most delicious cappuccinos, dare I say even better than those enjoyed in the Italian Dolomites. Everything precisely weighed before being brewed in the fancy espresso machine. Unfortunately started to pour with rain shortly after our informative stop and continued until our lunch break. Umbrella was a lifesaver and one of the most useful items I carried. Too hot for rain gear which would have made you sweaty and wet anyway and although I didn’t use my umbrella for sun protection, most of my companions did. We did see some coffee harvesting taking place. Evidently this hard labor is done by Panamanian workers and includes the whole family. Even small children were in the fields and sadly not in school like those children seen as we walked through one small village. Delicious lunch at a small community center and prepared by a group of local women. We had hoped to knock a few miles off of tomorrow’s itinerary, but the hard rain would have made it dangerous for our sag wagon to pick us up at the conclusion, so we again had a shorter day and were driven to our accommodation which was some distance away. Great cabins and a surprise dinner of pizza. 9 miles today.
Day 14: Early start for the high mileage day! Lilo drove us back to where we ended yesterday. Drizzle again! Did I mention hiking umbrellas are really handy in Costa Rica! First glimps of the Pacific Ocean and our destination of Quepos. Transitioned from cloud forest to rainforest. Still seeing some coffee but less as we descend. Lunch was early but incredible! We enjoyed coffee followed by delicious tilapia and vegetables served on a banana leaf and all raised on family-owned Rancho Turistico Mirador! Our host led us on a short cut he had created through the jungle and back to the trail. Animals sighted were a coral snake, white hawk, and white-faced monkey. Felt quite exhausted as we reached our destination of Esquipulas Bird Paradise! What a beautiful and peaceful place!!!! Many birds sighted including toucans, also a native raccoon, and red eyed frog. Our hosts provided delicious coffee and cake on arrival. Dinner was scrumptious grilled chicken, salad, and of course beans and rice. Our group has really bonded and enjoyed reminiscing about our journey. I think we all agreed that XTrekCR has been first rate, and our guide Alejo terrific! 16.4 miles today.
Day 15: Early start to try and beat the heat as we began our final day of hiking over gravel and paved road towards Quepos. Squirrel monkeys were everywhere in one stretch of road. Knew we were getting close as we passed through Palm Oil plantations. The palms are an introduced species and according to Alejo, unfortunately create a palm tree desert as they prohibit the growth of any plants that support wildlife. At least they did provide some shade in the relentless heat. We saw palm nut harvesting and the interesting transportation method. The heat was persistent and the frequent stops much appreciated. Our sag wagon driver had small plastic stools for us to rest upon and best of all, cold and refreshing watermelon every few miles. Definitely one of the most difficult days! When we reached the main road into Quepos the traffic and noise were overwhelming and disorienting. We trudged on and I was surprised when we reached the Quepos sign that signaled the end of the trail. Fabian and family were there to welcome us with cheers and cold drinks. Lots of hugging and high fiving as we celebrated our accomplishment! Lunch at a nearby restaurant and then a short drive to a local beach for dipping our toes in the Pacific Ocean! What an incredible and fantastic experience! 13.6 miles today
I cannot speak highly enough about Alejo, Fabian and the XTrekCR family and am deeply grateful for such a wonderful experience!! Fabian told us at the beginning that our hike would have a positive financial impact on over 90 families, which at the time seemed inconceivable but now that we have completed this Camino is totally plausible with the shuttle drivers, swag wagon drivers, guides, accommodation hosts and the culinary artists that prepared our food. Muchas gracias! Everyone we met was so friendly, kind and generous! Thank you to my dear friends, Mudsmeller, Spreadsheet, and Cheow who accompanied me on this memorable trip and also my new friends, Gabi, John and Q! What a time we had! I am also very appreciative to all for allowing me to use some of your spectacular photographs! What better way to immerse yourself in the beauty and culture of a country than to walk across it from coast to coast! Happy Trails and Pura Vida!
As a grand finale, Mudsmeller, Spreadsheet, Cheow and I had arranged to stay in a comfortable Quepos villa for 4 more days to celebrate our accomplishment and enjoy this quaint town before heading home. It was conveniently located next to Lucy’s Therapeutic Massage, and we all partook of Lucy and Tatiana’s expert skills several times to work out the kinks. Coincidently, Spreadsheet’s niece, Heather and her friend Julie both from London, were also visiting Quepos at the same time. We enjoyed visiting with them and they joined some of our outings. We went zip lining, and please take note that I overcame some trepidation and tried the Tarzan swing that involved jumping off a platform and free falling before swinging back and forth. I was terrified and had to be pushed off the platform! It was exhilarating and turns out that I loved it! We went on a fun catamaran tour which included snorkeling, water slides, and pina coladas. We also visited beautiful Manuel Antonio National Park with a recommended local guide which was fascinating! Lots of animal, bird and insect sightings! Ahhh…..now to keep that pura vida feeling going until the next adventure!
Dear Nemophilist, what a wonderful report of a great hike! Thank you so much for all the effort!
I enjoyed reading it a lot, was hiking with you, feeling the steep ascents, rain, heat and cold, hearing the sounds of the nature, getting to know the group members, was admiring the well thought out equipment like the special umbrellas, looking up some plants, was resting and enjoying the views, different landscapes, of course the food, the laughter and yes, the wine.
Hope to see you again on another trail.
Gabi