Hiking after Helene!

A little over a month ago I was making my way home from a wonderful weeklong hike in the Smokies but my post hike euphoria was hampered by the drive through torrential rain. It crossed my mind that Hurricane Helene, that I just learned was heading our way, had arrived a few days early. Unfortunately, it was a low-pressure system situated over western North Carolina that exacerbated the damage caused by the eventual arrival of horrific Helene. Many trees came down or were topped along with several landslides throughout our property in the Jocassee Gorges and our creek was unfordable. It wasn’t until several days later heading south in search of gasoline for the generator that I began to understand the magnitude of what had happened. Sections of my beloved Jocassee Gorges were devastated. Mother Nature had rearranged the landscape, though it was nothing compared to what I later learned had happened in Asheville, Chimney Rock, Lake Lure, Swannanoa and so many other mountain communities. At my home we were 2 weeks without power and 4 weeks without internet which included television and phone service. Minor inconveniences compared to the suffering and losses of so many! I suspect it will be a long recovery for the many that lost everything and I hope they are not forgotten as time passes! The influx of people coming from all over the country to assist those in need was beautiful as were the stories of neighbors coming together and helping each other! A free benefit concert in Brevard hosted by our own Steep Canyon Rangers and the Travis Book Band raised money for local businesses that have been severely impacted by the disaster during what is usually an extremely busy leaf peeping season and sure helped relieve some of the stress of the last month. In spite of tragedy, there is some good that came of it all. Reminded me of seeing the burn scar caused by the Dixie Fire while hiking the PCT in 2022. It was terrible but had its own special kind of beauty.

None of my hiking friends suffered major damage and by searching out accessible trails we managed to get in some hiking after the storm. Although the Smokies were hammered in the Cataloochee and Big Creek area, it seemed that the western part of the park was pretty much unscathed and that turns out to be where most of my remaining Smokies 900 miles lie. So, with the return of utilities and some semblance of normalcy on the home front, it was back to the Smokies and Cades Cove for me.

Unfortunately, not by my usual route because the Blue Ridge Parkway was still closed, and a section of I-40 fell into the Pigeon River. The traffic was bumper to bumper entering the park from Cherokee, but it was a picture-perfect day, the foliage was gorgeous and some excellent music playing so just relaxed into it and enjoyed the ride. I must admit to giving a sigh of relief upon reaching my destination and finally stretching my legs, knocking out a little over 8 counterclockwise miles on the Rich Mountain Loop Trails. Interesting John Oliver cabin towards the end. Evidently one of the oldest structures in the park. Front country camped, enjoying a campfire and a great book by headlamp.

Packed up my kit and had to decide whether to carry that really good but heavy library book, the tomato and/or avocado. No frost yet and my tomatoes were unbelievably not destroyed by the storm and still producing delicious fruit! Well, all three got packed! Short days equals more tent time, so must have something to read and I like to eat good food. Forgot about the conga line of cars that slowly travel Cades Cove, and it took me an hour to reach the Abrams Falls Trailhead. I think I could have walked there faster. The cove is incredibly idyllic and scenic, but I propose a different way to travel and see it besides the vehicle-free Wednesdays. What about a tram/bus that stopped at all the sights and at regular intervals so that visitors could hop on and off at the locations that interested them? Probably some problems to work out such as parking etc. but saw a similar plan in action at the Grand Canyon.

Hiked Wet Bottoms Trail over to Cooper Road Trail, the spine of much of my hike. I out and backed all the trails branching off. Many of the trails in the Smokies were once roads and as its name implies, Cooper Road Trail was such. Saw few people once I left the pavement behind, though did meet a pleasant day hiker also working on his Smokies 900. As we chatted, we learned we had both hiked the Appalachian Trail and he had begun his hike a few days before I started my hike on Katahdin in 2018, our paths never crossing until now.

The Beard Cane Trail was obviously not well traveled and with some blowdowns and creek crossings that should have been easily rock hopped. I somehow managed to get wet feet anyway. I tagged the end of the trail at the intersection of Ace Gap Trail then backtracked to Hesse Creek campsite #3. I quickly realized I had lost one of my Smart Water bottles probably at one of the blowdowns, but another dilemma was that my Pocket Rocket stove would not screw on to the fuel cannister. Probably cross threaded and despite many attempts I finally gave up and cold soaked my homemade dehydrated chicken of the woods risotto. Rice was a tad crunchy but tasty none the less. Made a delicious cold cocoa-coffee concoction the next morning and cold soaked oatmeal with added cashew butter and jam. Many hikers go stove-less to save weight and I guess I could do it, particularly during warmer months.

Found my water bottle on the return to Cooper Road, then out and back to the halfway point on the Hatcher Mountain Trail. Back to Cooper then out and back to the northwest boundary of the park on Cane Creek Trail. One more side trip up the Gold Mine Trail to the western boundary. Evidently a subdivision a little further on though I didn’t explore beyond a barn at the boundary. Pretty tired upon reaching campsite #1 and having put in 16.3 miles, though did find the energy to build an evening campfire. I had begun cold soaking my spaghetti dinner several hours before reaching camp and it was delicious. So glad I brought my library book!

The following morning, I packed up and hung my backpack on the bear cables and quickly hiked 1 mile to the end of Cooper Road and to the small Abrams Creek front country campground. It was closed for the season, but a beautiful spot and I will definitely return to hike additional trails from here that are currently closed. Back to pick up my pack and start Little Bottoms Trail and hike the other half of Hatcher Mountain. Today’s hike was the most scenic as the trail traversed along Abrams Creek. Reached Abrams Falls for lunch and spent a good hour enjoying this beautiful spot and soaking my feet. Abrams Falls is a popular spot since it is so accessible to the Cades Cove Loop Road though was not overly crowded. Finally made it back to my vehicle and proceeded back to Cades Cove Campground and a celebratory ice cream cone.

Enjoyed hot coffee the following morning since I had another stove in my vehicle. It started raining and finally put the table in the rear of my Bronco to use. Love that vehicle! Despite the rain I was determined to knock out a few more miles before heading home. Hiked a short segment of Indian Grave Trail that I needed to complete then headed to Ace Gap Trail. It wasn’t raining hard but enough to require wearing raingear though not particularly cold, so quite an enjoyable hike. Tagged the intersection with Beard Cane Trail that I had tagged several days ago. 13 miles today!

What a great hike! The weather was perfect and foliage outstanding! I finished my book, and it was worth carrying the extra weight though the avocado went bad before I ate it. Blue Ridge Parkway had reopened, at least to Hwy 215 which was my exit. 635.5 miles hiked toward completion of my 900! Hoping to knock out some more Smokies miles before the year is over! Please keep southern Appalachia in your thoughts!

“Mountains know secrets we need to learn. That it might take time, it might be hard, but if you just hold on long enough, you will find the strength to rise up.” – Tyler Knott