Loved the warm welcome at Kennedy Meadows but not much else. I spent the night at the free campground behind the General Store. The porta johns were a disgusting health hazard and I resorted to doing as I do on the trail. Mountains of trash everywhere, mediocre food and resupply. I think they were overwhelmed by so many hikers jumping ahead.
Did enjoy meeting the KM celebrity Yogi, owner of Triple Crown Outfitters. Amazing what she and her partner pack into their store located in a shipping container. Within 24 hours I was back on trail, only hiking a few miles to the nearby campground. Exchanged carrying lots of water for the required Bear canister and more food. Camped adjacent and ate dinner with Professor Pinecone who is thru-hiking with her 3 teenagers who I renamed the saplings. We had many common interests beyond hiking and I hoped to see them all again soon.
The trail remained somewhat the same but quickly began to change. Definitely more access to water and greener. Really enjoyed a break at the bridge over the S. Fork of the Kern River at Monache Meadow. Swallows nested under the bridge so it was important to get water upstream.
The trail quickly began to gain some elevation. Some of the creatures we were warned to expect included bears, mountain lions, rattlesnakes, marmots etc but I was surprised to encounter a rather large herd of cattle. I stepped aside to let them pass unaware that more were around the corner. Calves got separated from their mamas and lots of bellowing and a minor stampede ensued.
Looked like snow but probably salt flats or dry lake bed.
Spent a pleasant hour or so at Chicken Spring Lake. Windy and too cold for swimming for me though a couple of young lads took the plunge.
Met up with fellow mature hiker, Sourdough who I had met at Kenny’s Place in Big Bear. He had been struggling with the desert heat and I last saw him jumping in a car with Scots, Terry and Dell who were leaving the trail and figured he had left the trail too. Turns out he just jumped ahead.
Soon reached Crabtree Meadows where PCT hikers that wish to take advantage of hiking to the summit of Mt Whitney stage for the ascent. This camping area had an interesting privy! Not much privacy but a nice view. I used it!
Mt Whitney is the tallest mountain in the continental US at 14505’. I have to be honest and admit that I was a little nervous about the hike up since a young woman had died a few weeks earlier from possible altitude sickness after summiting. I had recently been hiking near Hawkeye and Downdog and we agreed to hike together to keep an eye on each other. Didn’t work out that way but I did make new friends with Taylor and Sweetwater and we encouraged each other along the difficult hike up to the summit. My approach was to take frequent breaks to regulate my breathing, slow down my crazy beating cartoon heart, and acclimate to the new elevation. The views were incredible!
Felt amazing to finally reach the top, a proud accomplishment!
This guy kindly took my summit photo but terrified me with his yoga practice at the very edge.
Great view of Guitar Lake on the descent and the sun began to set as I returned to my tent at Crabtree Meadows.
I awoke the following morning to the sound of rain on my tent, followed by sleet and eventually snow. I decided to stay put as did most others though a few ventured on only to return. My new acquaintances, Snuffy and Fluffy had gone up Mt Whitney for the sunrise only to get soaked and returned to find their tent collapsed and gear all wet.
By days end the sun peeked back out and the campground looked like a backpacker yard sale as everyone spread out their gear to dry.
Next up was the crossing of Forester Pass, the highest point actually on the PCT. Reunited with Baby Sinclair and Firefly on my way back to trail and we hiked together for a bit. Baby Sinclair’s shirt is indicative of how dirty we all get.
Breathtaking views yet again!
When it was pointed out to me where we were headed up to the Pass, I declared it impossible though possible it was.
A little snow to traverse on the northern side of the pass but easy enough. I can’t imagine hiking these passes earlier in the season or after a high snow year. Fortunately I never needed micro-spikes or an ice axe to self arrest. Good thing because I didn’t have either.
Ate lunch with some John Muir Trail hikers who were complaining about having too much food. I was actually running short on food because of not planning well at Kennedy Meadows plus having to take a snow day. We were able to resolve our respective problems and I gladly relieved them of some excess food weight. The trail provides!
Cold mountain streams are perfect for soaking hot stinky hiking feet!
My plan and most others had the same idea, was to exit the trail over Kearsarge Pass and head down to Onion Valley, Independence and then to Bishop for resupply. Just before the turn-off was a wonderful group of trail angels. Every year this group uses mules to bring up supplies to set up camp and prepare food for hungry hikers at Vidette Meadow. They had a great sense of humor, dressing up as Canadian Mounties as if we were already at the northern terminus. I arrived for breakfast which included toasted cheese and salami tortillas, baked sweet potatoes, coffee and snacks. Delicious! They had postcards that they would mail for us to friends and family. Very fun and much appreciated!
It was a beautiful hike but seemed to take forever to get up to Kearsarge Pass and down the other side, but I was first to get there among the group I was hiking with. Met David who was dropping off hikers at the trailhead and when I asked him if he shuttled hikers to town, said he had never done it before and had picked the hikers up on a whim, but would be glad to take me to Bishop, some 40 plus miles away. When I explained that others were behind me looking for a ride too, he said let’s wait for them. We soon had a full car load of hikers with only Sweetwater making the cut. The others successfully made their own way to town later. Trail magic twice in one day!
