Day 18: August 28
We spent last night at the Silver Ridge Lodge in Salida which was nice enough but pretty pricey for basic digs. Songbird and I did take advantage of the hot tub to relax our sore muscles. No laundry facilities and my clothes had taken on that tell tale hiker funk odor, so I purchased a cute outfit at a local thrift store for $2.98, yes $2.98 for culottes and top!! I was then able to amble around town in disguise, not sporting my usual hiker trash look and smell! Kinda liked that outfit and was tempted to keep it but didn’t want to carry more weight. Left it at the Simple Lodge and Hostel where Songbird and I moved when Slipper and Jeff left for their journey home. Saw another hiker eyeing it as I left it in the hiker box.
Songbird and I had a blast in Salida, my favorite trail town of those visited. We stumbled across a woman singing at an outdoor pub and had fun dancing to the classic rock oldies she was playing. She dubbed us the sidewalk dancers! Of course we had to go in and had an enjoyable afternoon dancing, sampling the local brews and talking to interesting people. We ended the day finally doing necessary town chores such as laundry, arranging a shuttle back to the trail in the morning, and organizing our packs.
Day 19: August 29
Because we were now some distance south from where we got off the trail at the end of Segment 11, we jumped back on at the start of Segment 15 thanks to trail angel, Barbara. The trail followed forest roads and we saw lots of mountain bikers and campers taking advantage of free dispersed camping. We met a really cool young woman who was a true nomad, living the good life in a school bus. She had done some of the conversion work herself. We spent some time chatting about her lifestyle which I found intriguing and honestly, quite appealing. She didn’t want her photo to appear on social media or the web so will honor that request. Loved the art on her schoolie! Songbird pointing to her favorite: “Be the Reason someone Smiles today”!
Lovely day! The person who took our photo asked if we were sisters…..our response, “trail sistas”!
We stopped fairly early to stay in a shelter and enjoy a civilized cup of tea just like I do every day at home with my Mum, Frolicking Dinosaur. Outstanding view from our afternoon tea party! Shelter was sort of like the AT shelters but no floor and I think is the only one on the trail. Water was another 1/3 of mile further and Songbird ran there and back to stock us up for the evening. 10.3 miles today
Day 20: August 30
Trail became quite rocky today though still some great views. At Marshall Pass we got trail magic in the form of delicious fresh apples from a section hiker. Seeing smoke from the California wildfires in the distance again! Feeling myself drag a bit, particularly on the uphill and suspect it’s not just the elevation but also the effects of the smoke. Starting to see lots of dead trees and another hiker told us it was caused by the Pine Beetle infestation. 12.2 miles today
Day 21: August 31
I’m up for some tree feeling! Loved this sign and was tempted to load it on my pack! You have to know the meaning of my trail name, Nemophilist to fully understand my attraction to this sign! You’ll have to do your own homework if you don’t get it!
Misspelling! I think this is what they meant! Sigh!
Ran into cows plus some cool hikers and bikers today. We were given faulty information by Philosopher riding his mountain bike. He told us we absolutely would not find water for 11 miles plus there was a warning in our data book, so we carried 3 liters a piece which turned out not to be necessary. Water was scarce but available. Crossed paths with the adorable CVS and Small Chai several times, the final time at a wonderful raspberry patch. Songbird shared some of her excess oatmeal with them so they could enjoy their harvest for dinner.
We decided to walk 1/2 mile off trail and down to Baldy Lake to camp. Gorgeous spot! 14.4+.5=14.9 miles today
Day 22: September 1
Notice that log in front of our tents in the photo above…..that is where we sat and ate dinner last night. The following photo from this morning right in front of the log. Guess we had a visitor pass through camp last night though neither of us heard a thing. I have slept with my food many nights on this hike because of a lack of limbs to throw a PCT bear bag hang. I fortunately had found a good tree and been able to get a perfect hang last night. Fresh bear scat if you don’t recognize! Looks like bear was enjoying the abundance of berries too!
Lots of raspberries again today and I ate more than my fill. We stopped just as it started to rain at a pleasant campsite nestled in the woods and next to a stream a mile short of Hwy 114. 12.4 miles today
Day 23: September 2
We walked a mile out to the road with the intention of hitching into Gunnison, 39 miles away. I didn’t have enough food to make it to the next resupply option plus there was the chance to ride the Bustang back to Salida to connect the dots on some of the segments we had missed. Comments on the Guthooks App suggested that it was an easy hitch. Heck, there were no cars on that road and we ended up walking for over 2 hours with just a handful of passing vehicles. A hiker called Noodles driving in the opposite direction stopped and offered to take us to a town as far away in the other direction. Didn’t make much sense to go that way but he kindly topped off our water bottles for us. Eventually a truck carrying a motorcycle in the bed passed us and about 10 minutes later had turned around and pulled over. Phillip was our lifesaving trail angel and drove us directly to the Wanderlust Hostel in Gunnison. Beautiful scenic drive and we learned Phillip was delivering the motorcycle from his home in Mississippi or was it Louisiana to Wyoming for a friend. He had once lived in Gunnison and shared tidbits about his very interesting life. Thank you Phillip! When we finally got a phone signal Songbird learned that her father had passed away. It was not unexpected but raised the question as to whether she should continue on with our adventure.
We started off by taking Phillip’s suggestion of eating some fantastic food at Pie-Zans! Delicious eggplant parm sub for me! The Wanderlust Hostel was fantastic! The manager, Meghan led a few of us in a yoga practice and we then met by far the most interesting person on this trip, Jon. He had bought all manner of veg and we helped skewer and roast them in the oven.. Meghan rode her bike to pick up a bottle of wine and the 4 of us dined, wined and enjoyed great conversation.
Day 24: September 3
We decided to stay put another day while figuring out our next move. Jon joined us for breakfast in town where I finally devoured a huge veggie omelette that I had been fantasizing about for days on the trail. We learned that Jon, who seemed to be very much still enjoying an active life in the latter part of his 7th decade, was riding his newly purchased motorcycle back home to Arizona. He seemed to have lived quite the bohemian lifestyle and it was a joy to meet and chat with him.
After a family conference call, Songbird learned she needn’t head home early so we decided to explore Gunnison. Went and took a closer look at a backyard 8 foot tall Virgin Mary that Phillip had pointed out yesterday. Interesting!
Another fascinating evening with our fellow guest Will, another nomadic soul who was very interested in the spiritual aspects of life and breath work. He played his wooden Native American flute for us. It was amazing and I felt a deep connection and physical and mental release listening to his music.
Day 25: September 4
Early morning for our 6 am Bustang ride back to Salida. It was a comedy of errors as Songbird couldn’t find her puffy, eventually found in the bathroom and I misplaced my charging brick later found deep in my pack. We frantically searched for our missing belongings while trying not to wake everyone up. Don’t think we were very successful. The bus passed our destination, the Foose Creek trailhead and the driver apologized for not being able to stop there. He advised to inquire at the bus terminal for assistance and before long were being shuttled to the trailhead by trail angel, Carol and now heading north on Section 14. Some fantastic scenery, though I again struggled on the inclines.
Today’s destination was a campsite on a creek on the other side of a gate that Songbird jokingly referred to as the gated community since it was already full of campers on account of Labor Day weekend. We backtracked a short distance up to a ridge and camped in Phase 2. 10.9 miles today
Day 26: September 5
Geez, our last full day on the trail and of course beautiful weather and breathtaking views! Always experience that unsettling feeling of satisfaction combined with sadness that it is all coming to an end! Camped at a luxurious backcountry campsite with picnic tables and privy. 10 miles today
Day 27: September 6
Just a couple of miles and we reached our destination of Mount Princeton Hot Springs. Purchased a day pass and celebrated the conclusion of our hike soaking our tired bodies, sipping delicious smoothies and enjoying a yummy lunch.
Called Carolyn who shuttled us into Buena Vista for our stay at the Topaz Lodge which we learned was formerly a brothel back in the day.
Day 28: September 7
Carolyn had advised that it was an unpleasant 2 mile walk to the bus stop, so agreed to pick us up and deliver us there. Bustang ride to Denver was quite pleasant and scenic. We then negotiated public transportation to Songbird’s daughters home in Layfayette enjoying a pleasant evening with her and her fiancé. Not quite ready to give up the outdoor life, I slept outside on a cot under their covered porch.
Day 29: September 8
Homeward bound! Much gratitude to my hiking partners, Slipper and Songbird, to all the trail angels and folks that helped me on this fantastic journey, to the wonderful and interesting fellow hikers and travelers I encountered, to the hard working trail maintainers, and lastly to my body that carried me and my gear down the trail and allows me to follow my passion! Would have tried for a thru hike but purchased music festival tix before plans were finalized. Musical legend, Mavis Staples was a headliner and on my bucket list of performers I must see. I write this after the fact and she was freakin’ amazing!!!! Colorado, I will be back!
Wow, what a great story
Thank you, Janice!