I thoroughly enjoyed my first visit to Costa Rica in 2019 and so my interest was immediately piqued when discovering the option to hike a relatively new Camino across Costa Rica from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean. My friend, Mudsmeller was also very enthusiastic about such a hike, and so we began to make plans together for this adventure. Unbeknownst to us, my local hiking friend, Cheow had made arrangements to make the same pilgrimage in March, but upon learning of our intention to hike in February changed her plans to join us. Lastly after giving it some serious thought, our friend, Spreadsheet decided to come along too. The trail is approximately 170 miles long and follows existing trails and roads through areas that are not on the typical tourist routes. Very few campsites exist and though the trail can be hiked independently, lodging and food must be planned out in advance. We chose to hike with XTrekCR hiking company who would guide us along the trail and make all the arrangements for accommodations and dining, plus support us with a sag wagon for luggage transport and rest stops. All we would need to carry is a daypack.
Day 0: We flew into San Jose a day early to allow for recovery from travel and to explore Costa Rica’s capital. XTrekCR arranged for our stay at the nearby Wyndham and we enjoyed dinner and cocktails at the hotel restaurant. Discovered the delicious Brazilian cocktail called Caipirinha containing a fermented sugarcane spirit called Cachaça! Salud!
Day 1: Due to a reservation mix up we had to move to another hotel across the street but no problem since our luggage was moved while we explored San Jose! Highlights were a huge indoor market called a mercado with booths selling just about anything a person could need. We explored China Town and several churches including The National Cathedral. The National Museum of Costa Rica was very interesting, showcasing the history of Costa Rica and of special interest to me, an enclosed butterfly garden! Delicious shrimp ceviche and a local drink made from cas fruit were enjoyed at Nuestra Tierra! That evening we met the lovely XTrekCR family that will guide us on the hike for dinner and introductions. Fabian is the owner of the company and an English teacher. We also met his beautiful wife, Marilyn and adorable young daughter Zoe. His 24-year-old son, Alejandro (Alejo) was to be our guide. We also met another member of our group. John, an avid world traveler who shares his homebase between Maryland and Colorado.
Day 2: It was almost a 3-hour minibus ride to the start and very bumpy towards the end. We picked up two additional travelers joining our group in Siquirres. Q was from the UK and Gabi from Austria. Short boat ride to a small soda (cafe) for a delicious lunch and the start. Hike began in the village of Parismina and along the small local airport runway, then parallel to the coastline. The heat and humidity were felt immediately! We performed the ritual dipping of our toes in the Caribbean Sea. So hot that I would have gone in all the way except for rough seas due to an earthquake in the Caribbean Sea the previous day. Very lush jungle like environment with abundant animals including Howler and Spider Monkeys, Sloth and many interesting birds. Leaf cutter and fire ants seemed to be everywhere. Two additional boat rides, one to cross a wide canal where it appeared there was no room for me in the boat, but after some teary sulking, they somehow squeezed me in, and I sat on the floor of the boat. The final boat ride was to our destination, the rustic cabins at Aventuras del Caribe. I tracked about 10 miles today which included the boat rides.
Day 3: Rain could be heard on the metal roof during the night and our early alarm clock was the startling growls of Howler Monkeys just before dawn. After a delicious breakfast we took a 1/2 hr. boat ride to begin the next section. Misting rain made for pleasant hiking in the AM. Today was all road walking but so cool to see Costa Rica up close. Modest small homes but very neatly kept. Walked past many banana plantations and a pineapple farm. Highlight was an impromptu invitation to stop at a farm for fresh coconut water. I scooped and ate some of the fresh coconut flesh inside! So good! Piglets and chickens in residence too! Our sag vehicle driver, Miguel was an important official in the local government and very friendly despite not speaking much English. His wife prepared us a huge traditional Costa Rican lunch at their home and served the same delicious cas juice I had enjoyed in San Jose. Very refreshing after the hot afternoon walk! We were shuttled to the Hotel Pacuare in Siquirres where we had picked up Q and Gabi several days earlier. 14 miles today!
Day 4: We sadly said goodbye to Miguel today and he gave the ladies a hug and kiss. We will be supported by another driver for the next section. Start of the climb today!! Most of today’s hiking was over a rough road and the scenery much different than the last few days. Definitely some muggy sections! At one point we could look back in the distance and see the Caribbean Sea where we had started. Despite the steep climb I enjoyed today’s hike. It was a little cooler with intermittent shade and an occasional breeze. It took most of the day to reach our new support vehicle driven by Isaac. We then had a short walk to lunch at Casita Verde consisting of “Chot” Suey which seemed to be the Costa Rican version of Chop Suey and of course the requisite beans and rice which we enjoy at every meal. Tented inside a rustic lodge and cold showers tonight. Alejo had brought a bottle of red wine to go with our dinner of chicken with beans and rice so not completely roughing it! 10.6 miles today!
Day 5: Despite the rustic accommodations I slept very well. We planned for an early start for our hike through the indigenous lands of Nairi Awari. Despite a plan to hit the trail at 5:30am we didn’t get going until a little after 6 due to a mix-up with our breakfast. I carried our breakfast beans and rice in a Ziploc bag for sharing at breaktime. An indigenous guide or “baqueano” is required for entry through their land and our guide was a young man called Gabriel. He met us wearing rubber boots and with a large machete attached to his side. We were instructed that he was to lead and Alejo would be the sweep in the rear with us 7 hikers in the middle. Despite the simple way of life of the indigenous peoples, they evidently had some connection to the modern world since many carried cell phones. The traditional home was a circular structure covered in palm thatch though most had an adjacent more modern structure also. Evidently men and women traditionally lived in separate huts. They were small and slight people and also quite shy. Gabriel didn’t speak English but pointed out interesting sights along the way and Alejo helped interpret. Gabriel did ask me for my name when I walked behind him for a time. The hike was magical in the tropical rainforest with its incredible variety of trees, plants, animals, birds and insects. All senses were engaged with so many different scents and noises. The trail was quite muddy but also very rooty and rocky. We had quite a slog going up to the highest peak of this section though not before having to take off our shoes for a knee-high river crossing. We enjoyed another traditional lunch in the indigenous Tsiobata Village. One of the most intriguing plants for me the plant nerd, was the sighting of what I initially thought was Amorphophallus or Corpse plant but probably more likely to be the Costa Rican native Dracontium. Wish I had spent a little more time studying the foliage and flower for a more definitive identification. We ended the day with a unique river crossing in a small metal cage with ropes and cables to pull passengers across the river 2 at a time. It was a blast! Gabriel then left us to run back home in 2 hours over the distance that had taken us all day to hike. The last mile for us was a brutal uphill climb but with the payoff of Isaac and the support vehicle waiting for us with a cooler of cold drinks including local Pilsen beer. A bit of a drive to a wonderful evening of delicious eats and glamping at Adventuras El Ceibo! 9 miles today!
Day 6: After several tough days we spent a relaxing morning at Adventuras El Ceibo! before a short day of hiking! The glamping stay was fantastic and the food excellent. The property was beautiful and even had a cute calf wandering around the grounds. We all stayed in tents erected on platforms with regular comfy beds. Unique bathroom facilities too. Road walking and agricultural crops were now sugar cane and coffee. Overcast most of the day and seemed cooler though maybe just getting acclimated. Yay, low mileage day; a nero! Arrived at our guiding families farm, Finca ViaLig where Fabian grew up. Fabian’s mother prepared a delicious lunch. Laundry available but I’m waiting for next stop to do mine. My laundry bag is fermenting and emitting an offensive odor so hopefully not a poor decision. Excellent food yet again! Don’t think I’m losing any weight on this hike. All of us but Q walked to the local Mercado. Incredible the amount of merchandise that can fit in such a small space. We enjoyed beers at the picnic table out front and watched the locals zip by on their motorbikes, sometimes the whole family precariously balancing on one bike. Also welcomed another group we keep bumping into who are hiking with another guiding company and compared notes on our experiences so far. Fabian and family had driven from their home to join us for dinner and good conversation. Fascinating to hear firsthand about life in Costa Rica and Fabian’s life stories. Only 5 miles today! We did skip a small 4km section along a busy road.
Day 7: Another fairly short day. Fabian’s mother prepared a fabulous breakfast. Excellent coffee grown on their farm and prepared using the unique chorreador pour over coffee maker. Gravel road walking with a steep climb to start. We all seem to be developing our trail legs, and we are now in the highlands so the temps not quite so brutal. Sugarcane fields everywhere and interesting to learn it is one of the easiest crops to grow though appears to be difficult to harvest. It is done by hand with a machete and loaded on unique trailers in the field. Hard work for sure! Very nice views as we headed down towards El Silencio and La Suiza. Seemed to be more affluent and many homes with beautiful gardens. We ran into Nick, a personable and friendly solo hiker from the Netherlands who we frequently keep bumping into along the trail. He was working remotely as he hiked and was taking a zero at a beautiful home. We passed where our guide, Alejo went to high school and some of his former teachers waved out to him from their lunch break. We stopped for an amazing lunch at the home of some of Fabian and Marylyn’s friends. Salad, spaghetti, focaccia with a desert of plantains in a spiced honey sauce followed by more excellent coffee! Funniest comment at lunch was Alejo describing his lean physique as “reverse fat” which actually sums it up very succinctly! Only another kilometer until shuttling to our accommodation at Siloe Lodge in the town of Canada. We passed Alejo’s home where he will spend the night since so close and so he can visit with his beloved dog. Phew….finally laundry done at Siloe Lodge! 8 miles today!
Day 8: Relaxing stay at Siloe Lodge. There was a five-minute drive to where we had ended the hike the previous day. We started climbing and passing through fields of bananas, plantains, coffee, and eventually primarily sugarcane. So interesting to see the small farms with a little of all the typical crops, vegetables; mostly tomatoes or peppers, maybe a cow or 2, some chickens and of course a dog. Costa Ricans seem to really like dogs particularly smaller and midsize breeds, and they all seem so well taken care of and well behaved. We walked through several small hamlets and past a closed sugarcane refinery. Great stop for lunch! Really enjoying all the different fresh fruit juices. Also had a refreshing frozen coconut concoction! Saw even more sugarcane growing, more harvesting and burning of the old crop in preparation for replanting. Passed through bustling Pejibaye and then began quite the ascent. We had a little chuckle when passing the tents that the hikers with the other guiding company will spend the evening as we walked an additional few miles to stay in the beautiful and interesting El Copel Bird Refuge. 14.3 miles
Day 9: Fantastic stay at El Copal. We arrived last night tired and in fog and rain and didn’t realize how incredibly beautiful the area around the reserve was. Spectacular sunrise! Lots of birds at the feeding platform! Delicious coffee and breakfast! Didn’t want to leave and would definitely love to come back in the future. The lodge is apparently a popular destination for birding, which is a passion of our guide, Alejo. Believe it or not, Uber was our sag wagon driver today. That was his real name, and he tied a bunch of bananas to the roof of the vehicle for our snacking pleasure. Tough climb to start the day but at least cool with misting rain. We are back in the rainforest with lots of interesting flora! I fell in love with a friendly goat at the side of the road though it declined to become my hiking partner and carry my pack. We descended into a small village with a lively soccer match in progress. Lunch at Doña Mariana’s Soda was delicious and included fish for a first. Sign marking the 1/2-way point on the Camino was at the lunch soda. Our destination was several miles further and we passed a huge noisy group of youngsters popping wheelies and racing their motorbikes before reaching our accommodation at Rio Macho Lodge. Some of us had signed up to visit a pricey hot spring but had a change of heart when learning that there was an option for a massage on site. Really enjoyed the 40-minute massage for only 20 bucks! Couldn’t understand a word the masseuse was saying and vice versa but he definitely found some tight spots in my neck and in my left thigh! Will sleep well tonight! 11.5 miles today
Wow, I am loving this extraordinary journey and only halfway to the Pacific Ocean! Click here for the rest of the story: El Camino de Costa Rica Part 2