An End-to-End, Flip-Flop Hike on Vermont’s Long Trail

In a topsy turvy year, why should I have expected my hiking plans to thru-hike the 273 mile Long Trail (LT) in Vermont to be any different. The original plan was to hike with my dear trail friend, Mudsmeller after she completed her last northern stretch on the Appalachian Trail (AT). Unfortunately, Mudsmeller had a close encounter with a sharp rock, 50 miles into her AT hike. A serious knee gash with stitches and infection removed her from the trail and ultimately back home to recover. In addition, thanks to last year’s auto accident, I underwent shoulder rotator cuff surgery this past spring and with its long difficult recovery was unsure I would be able to carry my loaded pack. I worked hard at physical therapy throughout the summer to restore my shoulder to backpacking condition and my surgeon eventually gave the green light to hike.  I briefly thought of scrapping my plans, but on reflection concluded that most of my long-distance hiking has been solo and with Vermont’s sensible response to the pandemic, it seemed like a safe place to fulfill my love of travel and insatiable need to immerse myself in nature, plus hike another trail on my bucket list. Vermont required visiting out-of-staters from hot spot regions to quarantine at home for 1 week, get a negative Covid test, then drive directly there. I gladly complied.

Mudsmeller and I had originally talked about a southbound (SOBO) hike since we would be starting later than planned and wanted to hike in fair weather. This itinerary starts at the Canadian border with the most difficult terrain and terminates at the Massachusetts state line and I decided to stay with that plan. Most Long Trail thru-hikers take the northbound (NOBO) route to build up their trail legs before reaching the tough sections and I would soon learn the wisdom of that plan. Our Vermont trail friend, Traildawgz, lives near the northern terminus and had planned on hiking some sections with us and he along with his adorable pup, Pax agreed to join me for the first 50 miles.

Section 1: Journey’s End to Johnson SOBO

Day 1: 9/5/2020 Laura Woodward Shelter, 8.7 miles. To get to the Journey’s End monument at the Canadian border and start the Long Trail requires an additional 1.3-mile hike from the parking lot. Cannot tell you how good it felt to be embarking on another backcountry adventure. I was so happy!

Day 2: 9/6/2020 Hazen’s Notch Camp, 8.6 miles. Jay Peak was the highlight today with its magnificent views!

Day 3: 9/7/2020 Tillotson Camp, 6.1 miles. Haystack Mountain was incredibly tough with its steep rocky ascent! Developed multiple blisters and muscle soreness today. Traildawgz seemed to be having an easier time than I and powered on ahead. There was a confusing diagonal stream crossing that was not well marked. I spent 30 minutes trying to determine the correct direction despite having the Guthook GPS hiking app on my phone. Later talked with many other hikers who also struggled with the trail at this spot. Slept in the shelter and met a woman who worked in costuming plays in NYC. I noticed her spritzing her clothing with what turned out to be vodka. She told me it was a costuming hack to keep costumes fresh between performances. I will definitely give this a try. Worst case scenario…..if it doesn’t work, I can spritz it in my tea before sleep.

Day 4: 9/8/2020 Ritterbush Pond, 6.5 miles. Not much information on my Guthook app. or signage from the trail about this lovely lake or pond as they are called in the northeast. Traildawgz knew it to be a good place to swim and there were cabins belonging to a local college where one could camp. The afternoon spent here was one of my favorites on the trail. It was so beautiful and peaceful and the swim most refreshing. Traildawgz cousin lived a short walk from the pond and later we visited her charming homestead and fabulous gardens. Her two beautiful horses grazed in an adjacent field. What a treat to meet such a strong independent woman and to see her amazing Shangri-la!

Day 5: 9/9/2020 Corliss Camp, 8.5 miles

Day 6: 9/10/2020 Route 15, Johnson 11.4 miles Some lovely views today particularly from Prospect Rock! Neat suspension bridge crossing the Lamoille River towards the end. My feet really hurt despite blister doctoring and taping efforts. Upon reaching the parking lot, I examined my feet, and they were in rough shape. I decided that it would be foolish to continue south over more difficult trail and made the decision to retrieve my car at Journeys End, return to Killington and hike NOBO on easier terrain while my feet healed. Mr and Mrs Traildawgz welcomed me into their comfortable home overnight and I was able to shower and launder my clothing. Mrs Traildawgz prepared a wonderful meal and was a trail angel in the truest sense by graciously welcoming me despite current social distancing recommendations. So thankful! It is very humbling to receive amazing trail magic!

Day 7: 9/11/2020 Zero Day at Coolidge State Park Campground. Upon reflection on my foot issues, I came to the conclusion that they were the result of having purchased new hiking shoes before my hike and being convinced by the salesman to try women’s shoes, despite knowing full well that men’s sizes are wider and fit my huge clodhopper feet much more comfortably. Thankfully, I was able to purchase the correct size shoes and blister supplies in the nearby town of Rutland. Also purchased more food for the next section since I am finding myself quite hungry.

Section 2: NOBO Killington to Appalachian Gap

Day 8: 9/12/2020 Stealth campsite overlooking Chittenden Reservoir 9.6 miles Todays hike started out as a comedy of errors. I drove to the AT/LT parking lot on Rt 4 and started hiking. After about a mile I thought to myself that I should be reaching Maine Junction, where the AT and LT diverge. After checking my GPS app. I was dismayed to find out that I had hiked 1.1 miles in the wrong direction, and all uphill I might add. Forgot I was now supposed to be hiking north. DUH! Turned around and walked again past my parked car and started hiking in the right direction. Eventually reached Maine Junction and started wondering where I had put my phone charging cord which I need to recharge my phone from the heavy battery pack I carry for such purposes. After, tearing through my pack, I realize that I had left it in my car, though I definitely did not want to turn around once again. I decided to continue and limit my phone use to navigational purposes only, until I reached my next town stop. The trail was much easier going and I felt great despite my stupid mistakes. Lunch stop at Sunrise Shelter and I met a pleasant couple from Mass. who were section hiking. I related my mistakes, and we had a good laugh, then the woman offered me her charging cord. They were completing their hike that day and she said she had a drawer full of cords at home. Trail magic strikes again! There were a rowdy group of fellas eating lunch also heading to my destination of David Logan Shelter. The Mass. couple shared the location of a stealth site overlooking Chittenden Reservoir that turned out to be a beautiful and peaceful campsite. I thoroughly enjoyed dinner sitting on a rocky overlook as the sun set. Bliss!

Day 9: 9/13/2020 Sunrise Shelter 10.4 miles My feet felt much better and the trail was so pleasant. Met section hiker, Greybeard of the OGAWA (Old Guys Always Walking Around) just as he awoke from a trailside nap. Intended to hike up to a stealth site at the Horrid Cliffs overlook but it started raining at the shelter so stayed put.

Day 10: 9/14/2020 Boyce Shelter 13.7 miles

Day 11: 9/15/2020 Cooley Glen Shelter 9.3 miles

Day 12: 9/16/2020 Stark’s Nest 13.9 miles Enjoyed some great views today and arrived at the fully enclosed Starks Nest just as the sun set. Another woman arrived and we had the spacious warming hut to ourselves. The wind roared all night and the mice came out to play after we settled in for the night. Luckily my food remained untouched though my shelter mate was not so lucky.

Day 13 9/17-18/2020 Appalachian Gap, Mad River Lodge 2.4 miles Short steep hike down to Appalachian Gap. It started to rain as I approached the road and unfortunately my arranged shuttle had forgotten our appointment. No worries, a quick phone call and he promptly arrived. Mad River Lodge was great! Went into Waitsfield and enjoyed a delicious Vietnamese Banh Mi sandwich. Days of hiking caught up with me, so decided to take an extra day of rest and more good eating.

Section 3: NOBO Appalachian Gap to Johnson

Day 15 9/19/2020 Montclair Glen Lodge 10.2 miles Chill in the air this morning! Trail got more difficult again but after an extra day of rest and my trail legs kicking in, I felt pretty good. Met up again with the Traildawgz at the Lodge, who had hiked in via a different trail.

Day 16: 9/20/2020 Stealth Campsite at Gleason Brook 7.3 miles Fantastic climb up and over Camel’s Hump! There were some sketchy sections on the climb up to the top but nothing unmanageable. Incredible views! I stopped to camp at as pleasant stealth site and Traildawgz continued on to his vehicle at the road. It was cold so I climbed in my tent at 6 and promptly fell asleep. Didn’t wake up until 7 the next morning!

Day 17 9/21/2020 Puffer Shelter 13.7 miles Day began with some road walking, then through some farm fields along the Winooski River and finally over the river on a foot bridge. I enjoyed the change in scenery. Shared the shelter with 2 amiable young men, Lamb and Skip.

Day 18: 9/22/2020 Taft Lodge 9.7 miles Today was the hardest day on the trail but also the best! It was a normal day until I reached the base of Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s tallest mountain. I had watched too many videos and read too many difficult accounts of this climb, so was very apprehensive. I briefly considered just waiting until the next day, but quickly realized how ridiculous that was, being it was only 1pm and too early to stop. I was beginning my ascent of the forehead when I received trail magic from a hiker coming down the first of several ladders. When I confessed my fears, he gave me a pep talk and detailed instructions on how to get up to the summit. Trail magic is the unexpected gift of receiving what you need the most, at the time when you need it the most. I don’t know if this gentleman realized the gift he gave me, but he certainly gave me the confidence to get up and over that mountain. It was extremely windy on the summit and quite difficult to descend the rocky trail to Taft Lodge. It felt very empowering to complete todays hike and I was proud of my accomplishment. The Lodge was completely enclosed and very cozy and I shared the space with Skip and Hans.

Day 19 9/23/2020 Whiteface Shelter 9.4 miles I continued on down to the road and the Smuggler’s Notch area. There was a nice change of pace again as the trail followed a boardwalk through some wetlands.

Glad I had not delayed hiking up Mount Mansfield yesterday because it was socked in today. Next up was beautiful Sterling Pond where I enjoyed some lunch and chatted with a group of young people traveling the northeast in an RV. One of the guys was a videographer and asked if they could interview and film me for his YouTube channel, Worldnomac. I agreed and so we shall have to see if it shows up in the future. https://youtu.be/JuwMxz9jx4s I ended the day at Whiteface Shelter, the oldest shelter on the LT and also adopted and maintained by my friend, Traildawgz.

Day 20 9/24/2020 Rt 15 Johnson 6.8 miles Not as difficult to get up and over Whiteface Mountain after the previous couple of mountains. Local hiker and shuttler, Erin Willo had agreed to drive me back to my car in Killington. I arrived at the road earlier than expected and her morning shuttle took longer than expected, so I ended up hanging out at Johnson Hardware for a good part of the afternoon and enjoyed chatting with some other hikers. Erin was so kind and interesting. The 2 hour drive passed quickly and it was great getting to know Erin and hearing about her family and life!

Section 4 SOBO Killington to Manchester Center

Day 21 9/25/2020 Pico Slope Stealth Campsite 3.7 miles Spent the previous evening at Gifford Woods State Park and met Ruth, who was traveling in her camper van visiting all of Vermont’s towns and also enjoying her passion for birding. She invited me to give her a call when I reached my next re-supply and her home in Manchester Center. I spent most of of the day preparing for the next section, cleaning my gear, laundering clothes, and eating good food! I actually had already done the remainder of the trail when hiking the AT, but being the weather was poor at that time plus as Traildawgz noted, I’m a “die-hard” hiking geek, so I’m going to walk it again. Didn’t get started until late afternoon so low mileage to a stealth campsite on the Pico ski slope and a great evening view.

Day 22 9/26/2020 Stealth Campsite 10.4 miles Went the wrong way twice today. First was missing the trail off the ski slope that would take me back to the AT/LT. I ended up at the top of Pico and had to backtrack a couple of miles. Later I took a side trail to check out a view and ended up walking back on trail I had just hiked about a mile and a half. Didn’t even realize it until I crossed a road and opened up a trail log box to see that I had already signed it. Had to laugh at myself for being such a goofus! At least the foliage was really starting to look stunning today! I had planned to go to Clarendon Shelter but was advised by a ridgerunner that there was a momma bear and 2 cubs causing issues and probably best to avoid. Later crossing a road, I met 3 people who had just taken part in a new WMA dedication and they told me about a nearby stealth site. Being short on water, one of the women took my water bottles to her nearby home to fill. Double trail magic….as I waited for her return noticed some roadside apple trees and ate my fill.

Day 23 9/27/2020 Little Rock Pond 16.5 miles Felt strong today and was able to hike further than usual. A couple of signs tickled my funny bone, though I certainly don’t condone graffiti.

The trail was very familiar and I remembered hiking through Clarendon Gorge and through the rock garden 2 years ago. I have mixed feelings about such rock art. Definitely not following “Leave No Trace” principles. Onward to the beautiful Little Rock Pond and shelter. Was hoping for a swim but arrived at sunset and a little too late to get wet. Chatted with Brian, the caretaker, who when I admitted to being jealous of his gig, advised me that there was no age limit to being hired on. Hmmm! Shared the shelter with Daniel from Colorado.

Day 24 9/28/2020 Styles Peak Stealth Campsite 12.7 miles

A little drizzle in the morning soon cleared off and it was a beautiful day. I had intended to stop at Peru Peak Shelter but had more gas in the tank and hiked on up to Styles Peak and a fantastic stealth campsite. Great sunset and dinner view again!

Day 25 9/29/2020 Manchester Center 7 miles A big rain event forecast for the evening and the clouds looked threatening as I hiked over Bromley Mountain. I called Ruth who I had met several days ago and she picked me up at the road crossing. After lunch and retrieving my resupply box in town, Ruth took me to her lovely home. Amazingly she went picking apples while I cleaned up and sorted myself out. Excellent dinner and conversation! Again, I am deeply honored and touched by the generosity of people I meet while hiking!

Section 5 SOBO Manchester Center to Massachusetts border

Day 26 9/30/2020 Stratton Pond Shelter 10.8 miles It rained all night and most of the morning so I didn’t resume hiking until mid morning and put my umbrella to good use. Streams were gushing and no shortage of water today. Stratton Pond Shelter is one of the nicest and was not as crowded as when I stayed here 2 years ago.

Day 27 10/1/2020 Kid Gore Shelter 15.1 miles Up to the summit of Stratton Mountain and the fire tower and this time around, no rain or fog! Hurray!

I always regret not taking more photos of the people I meet! For me, it is one of the best things about taking a hike! Zan, a vegan, SOBO AT thru-hiker! Bill and Terry on an overnighter! More excellent hiking views then a great sunset and full moon rising at Kid Gore Shelter shared with Giggles!

Day 28 10/2/2020 Melville Nauheim Shelter 12.5 miles Brief sunrise but unfortunately a little morning rain though cleared by afternoon.

Day 29 10/3/2020 Beaver Pond Stealth Campsite 10 miles Hiked the short distance down to the road and met up again with Traildawgz plus his friend, Andrew, who had also hiked with me for several days on my previous AT hike. Some of the trail today was familiar but some not so much. It had snowed last time I was here 2 years ago. Traildawgz and Andrew brought a delicious fresh homemade pasta dinner to share at our beautiful beaver pond stealth campsite. Perfect meal and the best companions for my last night on the trail! As is often the case for me, I was excited but also sad that this hike was coming to a conclusion!

Day 30 10/4/2020 Massachusetts Border 5.7 miles Traildawgz and Andrew outdid themselves with a celebratory breakfast, cooking up fresh eggs, sausage, potatoes and toasted bagels with cream cheese. YUM! Strange that I now feel so strong on the last day and wish I could keep going! It was an emotional moment to finally reach the sign signaling the end of the Long Trail! To return to the “real world” required a few more miles on the AT and then a sharp descent on the Pine Cobble Trail to Williamston, Mass. Mudsmeller’s lovely niece, Erin met us at the trailhead and shuttled us all back to Traildawgz car. 

Vermont is beautiful and I am so incredibly happy that I was able to pull this trip together and have such an enjoyable experience in a strange and unsettling year. The Vermonters I met were extremely friendly, very aware of Vermont’s history and geography and rightly proud of their state. The trail was much more difficult than I anticipated, particularly north of Appalachian Gap. I lucked out with almost perfect weather and got to experience the beautiful colorful fall foliage. I love that Vermont is so environmentally friendly and aware. Also, no billboards in Vermont! I loved the good food and emphasis on local! Vermont craft beer is fantastic, particularly the Alchemist Heady Topper. Cheers! Vermont cheese is pretty amazing too! Maple Syrup can be purchased by the gallon and is a bargain! A maple crème is a delicious soft ice cream confection, though cannot believe I did not have any Ben & Jerry’s! What a splendid and unforgettable adventure!

THE STATS:

Long Trail: 273 miles

Shortest day: 3.7 miles

Longest Day: 16.5 mile

6 nights spent off the trail

2 Zero Days (no hiking)

Lost 10lbs of body weight!

Lost 5 toenails and probably a 6^th soon!

Gear Lost (I always seem to lose something): 1 pair darn tough socks, 1 croc camp shoe, part from Traildawgz water filter (feel really bad about that one)

Many thanks to Traildawgz for the use of some his great photos!