Recent record breaking, frigid temperatures and an early snow in the Smokies created an opportunity for daughter, Klaire to snag us a spot at the Mount Leconte Lodge in the Smokies. Just so you know how difficult it is to get a reservation at the Lodge, the 2020 season is already completely booked and your only chance is to hope for a last minute cancellation, as happened after our recent cold spell.
Day 1
I think my SUV just goes into auto pilot on the 2 hour ride up to the Smokies since I’ve done it so often of late. It’s a little bit of a white knuckle drive on I-40 but I usually get off as soon as possible and take the lovely curvy back roads. I decided to stop at the seasonally closed Cosby Campground and knock off the several connecting trails and a 1 mile horse trail that I had not completed in this area yet. There was still snow on the ground and it was also melting off the trees creating a slushy and wet but interesting fall-winter wonderland hike.
Day 2
I left my car at the crowded Alum Cave Trailhead and then Klaire and I headed up to Newfound Gap in her car and started hiking north on the Appalachian Trail. The trail was slick with packed ice and it was only a few minutes before we were forced to stop and put on our traction devices, which stayed on the rest of the day. We hiked about 3 miles before reaching the Boulevard Trail, considered the most difficult ascent up Mount Leconte, the third highest peak in the Smokies. It was a glorious hike with some amazing views!
Klaire had made us some delicious grilled tofu sandwiches for lunch. No peanut butter and jelly for these gourmet hikers! Around 4ish we arrived at the Lodge and checked into cabin #4.
The Lodge is over 80 years old and I believe, predates the National Park. It is very rustic with no electricity, though is heated by propane that is helicoptered in at the beginning of the season. There is spring water available and flush toilets, so not completely off the grid. Each room has a bucket that you can fetch hot water back to your room for a Dolly Parton wash up/down, if you desire. Llamas trek up fresh supplies once a week. The Lodge was reminiscent of the huts I stayed in during my hike through the Whites in New Hampshire last year. Klaire and I enjoyed some hot chocolate before heading out for one of the most spectacular sunsets ever, well perhaps not quite as impressive as the one we saw earlier this year at the Grand Canyon, but close.
We enjoyed dinner with 2 other groups at our table, especially a group of 3 older men who enjoy hiking together and make a point of hiking up to the Lodge once a year. We retired to the common area, heated with a gas fireplace and lit with oil lanterns. It was quite rowdy with one group playing a raucous card game as they passed a bottle around. Everyone seemed to lose steam around 9:30 and pretty soon everyone retired to their rooms for the evening.
Day 2
Klaire set her phone alarm for 6:30 am so that we could enjoy the sunrise from Inspiration Point, a 7/10 mile hike from the Lodge. It was cold but quite beautiful, though not quite as spectacular as sunset. After breakfast, we packed up and began our descent down the Alum Cave Trail. Yesterday we had not seen another soul on the Boulevard Trail, but today the Alum Cave Trail was like an interstate highway with tons of hikers heading up. It is one of the most popular trails in the park, plus it was Saturday.
There were some spectacular views on this trail, so no wonder it is so popular. Although I really do enjoy the solitude of the back-country, it makes me happy to see so many people enjoying the beautiful outdoors with obvious contented grins plastered across their faces. All down hill, we made pretty good time and soon reached my car. I am so incredibly happy that Klaire has gotten the hiking bug and cherish my time with her on the trail. I don’t think she’s ready to tackle an extended long distance trail with me, but I’m not giving up on that idea yet. Now back to Smoky Bear Campground to soak those sore muscles in the hot tub!
Day 4
I had intended to head back home today, but learned it was National Take a Hike Day, so naturally it was necessary to celebrate such an auspicious day and another hike was soon in the works. Klaire and Patrick sometimes hike with their friends Anna and Phil, so we arranged to meet them at the Greenbriar area to hike the Grapeyard Ridge Trail. We first spotted my car at the conclusion of the trail on the Roaring Fork Motor Road. Anna and Phil are an awesome couple that are obviously hard-core, card carrying members of the hiking tribe and enjoy frequent backpacking trips. I really enjoyed meeting them and hiking with them and Klaire and Patrick. This hike was harder than I expected with quite a lot of uphill and roller coaster trail, but it was a magnificent day with warm temperatures, blue skies, and almost all of the recent snow melted away.
Day 5
Well, today I really did need to head towards home but figured I’d get one more small hike in before hitting the road. I needed to connect the dots by hiking the short 2 mile Chestnut Branch Trail up to the AT in the Big Creek area where I had hiked about a month ago. It was in and out and fairly easy after all the hiking of the last few days. Admittedly, I was sad that it was all coming to an end. It’s now 232.2 miles in the Smokies, and still a lot more trail to hike.
Nemophilist Hikes 